Easy Fix? Please help!

So here is the problem. I have attached pictures, My motor wont mount because of the frame, I was thinking about filing down the motor to allow the cuff to fit.. What should I do at this point?

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Go to a hardware store look for some all thread studs that are longer . Preferably in grade eight. You can also find longer bolts that are threaded all the way across them, cut the heads off of them. If you use a nut going from the uncut side to chase and clean up the threads after cutting them. On a grade eight bolt you may need a die to chase the threads if not cut clean enough. Let us know if that helps. Somebody here might even have a better Idea!

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You can also clean up threads with the sharp corner edge of a file.

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One can do anything you set there mind to.... Do a good thing...

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DAX 80f
Slanthead
NGK B7HS
SBP performance wire
44T
Stock Exhaust
32:1 cheap oil
no port matching

30 mph uphill!!!

Like Ozzy said best fix is to get the SBP frame adapter and order a bolt/stud upgrade kit for the whole motor at the same time. Don't forget the blue lok-tite for every bolt and stud. I also got their tank petcock and a teflon clutch cable. The new petcock will never leak. It's a really nice one. I carry the original clutch cable with me for a spare. If you get the new petcock be sure to use a inline filter. They ship very quickly.

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Tascott,
If you're very careful and feel confident using a Dremel tool with a metal cutting burr or a sanding drum, you can alter the inside diameter of the front motor mount so it will rest against your downtube. You won't need to remove too much material, not enought to compromise your engine for it to fit. Instead of buying or making studs you can use bolts of the correct length. Allen head cap screws are available at Ace Hardware and other suppliers that will be better than all-thread which is usually a much softer material. Most Allen cap screws you'll find, especially if they're black, will be a grade 8 bolt. Do not use stainless steel fasteners on any high stress application such as motor mounts. Don't overtighten your fasteners. Tighten evenly from side to side and only until you flatten the lock washers then a little tweak more. Hope this helps you out. If you don't feel comfortable grinding on your engine then there are aftermarket mounts available.
Tom

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my engine kit from gasbike came with short and long studs so i put in the longer ones.
or if the back studs are longer you can swap them for the front ones.

I had the same problem installing an “80cc” 2-cycle engine on a 24” Huffy frame with an oversize down tube. I squashed the down tube a bit in a vice so the front engine mount would fit the deformed tube. I also filed out the front engine mount to make it fit better (see pics). I replaced the stock studs with all-thread purchased locally. It was very easy to squash the down tube and the engine mount was easy to file.



OVERSIZED TUBING solved <- original post

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On my first build I ran into something I did not like. The studs had a tendency to spread out! This would still work with cap bolts. Make a plate of metal conjoining the studs at the outside tubing. keeps it all square. I cringed at the site of some of that. looks like it will work fine!

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No It wouldn't work with cap bolts on my set up and it does not look as clean. About 12 millimeters from the nuts where I fasten to the outside tube I added that plate. Then It was sorta double nutted after that. With two plates one against the tube nuts plate then nuts.

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One can do anything you set there mind to.... Do a good thing...