Rear sprocket: How tight is too tight?

So I finally got my rear sprocket mounted, which was a pain. If the bolts had been just a little longer it wouldn't have taken me over an hour, and wouldn't have gotten sore hands from compressing things enough to get the nut and lock washer on . But as I tightened it down, I realized I had no idea how tight to make them.

So, just how much should I tighten the bolts? Until the lock washers lay flat?

I'm mainly asking because after I got the sprocket on,put the wheel back on and spun the wheel, my the sprocket is straight, but the wheel isn't. I thought my rear wheel might be a little uneven, but it looks worse than I thought. Thought maybe that over tightening the sprocket may have caused it.

Then again, it is a kinda old, used mountain bike.

Attach a wire to the stay to act as pointer to check the sprocket wobble and eccentricity. Do the same to the
If your spokes are so loose that the rim is toast get another rim
Buy a used bike and use it for parts.
In my area used Womens bikes are about $5.00 Used Mens bikes are very expensive about $75.00.
If I show upon a motorized bicycle the price doubles LOL.

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Motorized bicyclist

I would remove the sprocket (yeah, I know that's not what you wanted to hear) and true up the wheel, tighten the spokes, then re-install the sprocket.

99% of all wheels can be trued up to an acceptable level. Remove the tire/tube/rimstrip and use a screwdriver.

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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

Any tutorials online to show me how to true up a wheel? I've never even done that before.

great, just what I need, more money spent on tools

I just use a old set of forks in a vise and pull the tire and tube and use a screwdriver.

I don't have a vice. Nm, it looks like I'm going to need a different bike anyway. I just discovered that my chain is going to hit my rear brake no matter what I do, short of filing down part of the brake. The brake is on the bottom part of the frame instead of on top, so no matter how low I get the back of the motor, the chain is going to hit the brake.

The only other thing I could think of would be to use the chain tensioner on the top part of the chain instead of the bottom, but it doesn't sound like a good idea. There would probably be too much pressure on it and it would end up breaking it.

My local bike shop said they would do it with the sprocket on.
Does the sprocket interfere with the truing process?

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DAX 80f
Slanthead
NGK B7HS
SBP performance wire
44T
Stock Exhaust
32:1 cheap oil
no port matching

30 mph uphill!!!