Installing rear sprocket

Hi y'all. So I'm finally on the first step of installing my kit (after getting a frame stripped and painted and getting all the other components ready). My question is this: Is there a rule of thumb for tightening the 9 sprocket bolts? How tight am I supposed to tighen them? I'm pretty mechanically minded and so I'm trying to go by feel but obviously the rubber rings are throwing me off a bit because I'm not tightening metal against metal where it is easier to tell the snuggness of the bolts but instead I'm compressing (sandwiching) the rubber rings. Obviously I want the sprocket noce and immovable so it wont try to move when there's a load on it but not so tight that I distort my spokes and warp the wheel. I have used thread-locker and tightened the bolts so the sprocket is true and doesn't wobble side to side and the lock washers are compressed flat. Elshewhere in my assembly instructions it says to tighten the cylinder head bolts and other engine mounting hardware to about 9 ft/lbs of torque but I don't think that applies to the sprocket.

Any input?

I use a nut driver (screwdriver type handle) to install as tight as possible by hand. Then a few turns with a stubby ratchet handle while spinning the wheel with a felt tip marker to find high points.

Yeah, unfortunately with the dastardly rubber ring mount technique it's "best guess" lol, don't wanna over tighten to the point they're squishing out - don't want 'em too loose...

Best bet is to get the sprocket adapter and be done with it heh
SPROCKET ADAPTER

By far the best solution is Manic Mechanics or Kings sprocket sales setup. I have the Kings setup which came on my SCSW setup bike and what a difference-no constant spoke tightening.

Make sure the sprocket spins straight before tightening the bolts all the way!!
Tighten them slowly in a 'star' pattern & keep spinning the wheel to make sure the sprocket is still straight, then tighten some more.
Make sure it is as perfect as you can make it!!! I usually tighten them to where the rubbers touch each other.
I use a plastic head hammer to adjust it while tightening.

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Having a way to spin the wheel while tightening the sprocket is almost essential. You can get it close by watching the sprocket where it goes around the hub but that's only ball park at best. The wheel needs to free spin so you can watch for any irregularities.
Use Venice Boy's advice and tighten in a star pattern, side to side so you don't bolt in a wobble. If you don't have a plastic head hammer use a block of wood to protect the sprocket teeth and any old hammer you have. Go slow, take your time, check and recheck as you tighten. I've never seen a spec for torque but all of the above advice is good.
Tom

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someone said I should file the teeth on the sprocket before I install it on the wheel is that good advice?

Well - adding a slight bevel to the sides of the teeth helps them align better should the teeth hit the side of the chain, on "real" sprockets this is commonplace...

Yet it shouldn't be a problem if you don't - the sprocket shouldn't be nicking the chain like that anyway *shrug* still, it couldn't hurt.

I'm planning on doing that the next time I change my tires out lol