engine floods its self

TINKERER · #1 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 10:44 AM

My newly installed 80cc kit floods when it sits. yes the fuel line is shut off and you can actually watch the fuel drain into the carb through the line (after about 10 hours) what is going on here? I have to pull the plug and pedal for a while to dry the cylinder out then put the plug back in and it runs like a top.

**Ilikeabikea** · #2 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 12:14 PM

If it's leaking past the tank petcock you need to get new petcock.

deacon · #3 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 12:30 PM

That was my thought to... I know you said you had it turned off but just for the sake of being thorough the off is a quarter clockwise turn right?

Pablo · #4 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TINKERER

My newly installed 80cc kit floods when it sits. yes the fuel line is shut off and you can actually watch the fuel drain into the carb through the line (after about 10 hours) what is going on here? I have to pull the plug and pedal for a while to dry the cylinder out then put the plug back in and it runs like a top.

The fuel should not be getting past the float valve - if the float is up, the valve should be shut. Suspect trash in that orifice. If fuel is leaking after that and draining the bowl then you need to find out what is open to drain the bowl.

Where is the fuel going? Coming out the main jet? The jiggler?

deacon · #5 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 04:25 PM

BEFORE you open your carb, turn the inline fuel switch to off, then remove the gas line at the carb to see if it is leaking with the switch off.
Always do the least invasive things first.

since your bike runs well after you clear the flooding, I would suspect the carb only after I had eliminated everything else.

However keep in mind I'm the guy who seized his engine before I really got it to run so take it with a grain of salt.

Pablo · #6 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 04:30 PM

Can't argue with the good deacon on that. If you want to open the carb in the future, see Norm's pictures and ask me. I've been inside that carb more than......well......I almost wrote something unsavory. It's pretty simple, really.

TINKERER · #7 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 05:12 PM

I think what was happening was a combo of things, the first thing i had the throttle cable adjustments tight as possible so the slide was resting slightly higher than it should. Second since the slide was much higher than it was supposed to be the idle screw had to be in farther something like three turns out, I re adjusted and everything seems fine, I took it out for a run and it didnt bog at full throttle.

deacon · #8 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 05:25 PM

Good for you....

The first piece of advice I got from my dad about fixing things was, "when something goes wrong, first look at the simplest answer then work toward the hard ones."

Of course these days you go to an auto repair shop and it's find the most expensive thing it might be then replace it."

I had a broken joint in a heater control cable and wound up buying a new heater control from the dealer and paying the labor to have it installed. When it didn't fix the problem, they found the broken cable and taped the plastic joint back together.

That will be 250 bucks Mr Gurkin. Oh no charge for the black tape. What a deal...

toytime · #9 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 05:29 PM

If you really think about it , the position of the slider should not have ANY effect on your problem but if I am wrong I'd say I've learned something new.
I'd go with the dirt thing myself or a bad float level.
This should be interesting.

Pablo · #10 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 05:29 PM

I see - the needle (and slide) was pulled up in sort of permanent suspension. Good one. I think others have had similar issues by not slacking the cable just a mouse hair.

But isn't this what the idle screw does???