CE clutch kit - adjustment headache

Pablo · #1 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 10:53 AM

I installed the CE clutch kit with no real hassles. It's been working like a champ for me for many months. I recommend it to people all the time.

Anyway - I got the slant plug head last week or so, which increased my compression ratio and power output. My clutch started slipping like a mofo, so I took the plate off, degreased it, drilled it and wow it grips really well - but now I'm having a bear of a time adjusting it. Either it grips great but doesn't fully disengage (dies for sure at the push button position of the hand lever) and still is grabbing with hand lever pulled fully in - OR with just the very next notch looser with the flower nut it slips again (I mean it slips a LOT). It's like the long throw arm just is not moving enough.

Is there something stupid I'm missing?? - I haven't pulled the pin or messed with anything else. I want to ride in the worst way, so I just ride with it in the "grippy" mode, but it dies sometimes even with the clutch handle all the way in.

I've emailed Jim at CE (THE Manic Mechanic) to take a crack at it, but he's a busy guy.

cls74 · #2 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 01:06 PM

Would lengthening the actuating rod help any? Seems like that would give the clutch arm a little more travel allowing the clutch to disengage further?

I'm not sure how tight he held his tolerancing when he machined them, I know the stock setup has a lot of rotational slop in the arm so lengthening would be doable.

Pablo · #3 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 01:39 PM

I've thought about that. I could have just been on the hairy edge when I first installed the clutch kit.

He supplies several lengths of rod because of different engine types and tolerances. I actually had to grind the shortest rod supplied to get it to fit at all.

Pablo · #4 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 02:57 PM

I messed with adjusting it and it's OH SO CLOSE. The biggest problem now is the silly stock cable return spring. It's just TOO LONG. I'm gonna see if I can find a shorter one, or cut some coils off the stock one. My pull, to be aligned straight in doesn't leave a ton of room between the engine side cable adjusting barrel...........

Pablo · #5 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 04:32 PM

I keep getting closer. I cut about 1" out of the cable return spring. Still the same problem, but much closer. There's not much more I can do externally. Eat lunch, then I'm going in.

Creative Engineering · #6 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 04:59 PM

Pablo,

This is a simple fix.

When the star nut is turned clockwise to increase clutch pressure, the adjustment of the actuator changes too.

It sounds to me like you've got WAYYY to much freeplay in the cam...remember the 0-20 degree diagram that was in the instructions? It really needs to be set-up this way in order to work.

Too much freeplay in the cam will cause exactly what you describe. You will need a longer pin.

The arm should not be so close to the cable stanchion that it is bunching up the return spring.

If you have the correct amount of cam freeplay, (0-20 degrees), then you will need to remove the arm that the cable connects too and reposition it clockwise on the cam.

Jim

Pablo · #7 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 05:28 PM

OK - but why would all of a sudden be so wrong? I had 0° freeplay before. Maybe it changed with clutch wear, star nut adjustments, etc.

Creative Engineering · #8 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pablo

OK - but why would all of a sudden be so wrong? I had 0° freeplay before. Maybe it changed with clutch wear, star nut adjustments, etc.

As you turn the star nut clockwise the pin moves away from the cam which will increase the amount of freeplay.

A minor adjustment doesn't matter...a big adjustment will require a longer pin.

It is also possible that you are simply overdriving the clutch due to the increased power. You may have adjusted the star nut beyond the point that the pressure plate will release in order to get it to stop slipping.

If this is the case you will need to tighten the primary spring inside the case to increase the grip on the pressure plate, and then repeat the whole process of adjustment again.

It is not the clutch actuator that is giving you fits...It is nothing more than a means to push the pin.

Jim

Pablo · #9 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 07:59 PM

I came to the same conclusion this afternoon. Then I dropped the starnut lock screw and couldn't find it. So I bagged it and went and played music (bass) with my daughter's drum lesson teacher...relaxed now.....

Outrunner · #10 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 08:34 PM

Pablo, I too had a very difficult time trying to get my clutch to either
release or grab properly, just about the same problem you described.
What finally worked very well for me, was to remove the the whole clutch actuater and THEN I adjusted the star nut so it would not slip.
This removed any possible conflict with the clutch arm assembly.After
spending about 2 1/2 hours of frustration, it turned out real well. Of
course you need to have your bike on a center stand or wood blocks, so that you can grab the rear wheel and turn the engine over with the spark plug IN , to set the star nut. This might work out for you too, and it won't take too long to try it before you disassemble the whole
clutch assembly.