Carburetor pictures how to install and rebuild

float how it looks when its upside down I'm sure there's a measurement in china but I don't know what it is I should have measured it the pic. should get you in the ball park.

Now if I knew how to absorb that without pulling my carb off i would be sooooo smart. I hope i can find this when I need to work on my carb for real.

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adjusting the float for the fuel level this is something to do only if you can't get it to stop flooding or over filling the bowl with fuel. If you ruin it you most likely will have to get a new carb. I haven't checked on parts at the cycle shops. I'm showing where to bend it I don't recommend bending the tangs as it would be hard to get them the same and they probably are not the same anyway. messing with fuel level in the float bowl will affect rich to lean to a degree how much on this thing I don't know. lower fuel level equals learner mixture and can starve engine and you might burn a hole through the piston. something to think about. Do a plug check when messing with the carb.

I'm not a big fan of silicone but there is a time and a place for this stuff. This will seal the intake to carb very, very, I do mean very well. YOU WILL NOT SUCK SOMETHING into your engine and cause you a big heartache this way. I ,m showing you how easy it is to do step by step.

push it together. you can do this on the bike if you got the room sometime you will have to remove the aircleaner to mount the carb on a tight fitting frame. after pushing it together just a little twisting to help spread the silicone and aline up the casting seams on the carb and the manifold tighten the bolt and TADA.( I polished off the seam fooling around with the polishing wheel and never mind the weird fitting its for a boost bottle and I wanted to try one so I made one. I would recommend a tuned pipe money better spent and thats my 2-cents but they don't hurt anything and if you want it to look cool sticker and all go for it. I did find the engine will idle at a much lower setting on the idle screw and the thing seems to run smoother but top end nada.

as the picture says no part of a o-ring sticking out in the bore and no need to worry about it coming loose and the engine eating it. the carb should not come loose or leak and you don't have to worry about keeping the carb pushed up tight against the ring while tightening it. I rest my case.

airbreather exploded view. I cut the opening where the air comes in on the breather teeth opened it up a little. the gain? more noise for sure.

I thought I'd show the choke and the symbols we all know what they mean . you can read chinese can't you. The filter ain't the best but it works for me and I'm cheap. #2 pic. almost done the last parts to go in the carb and again the stock setting and parts aligned on sequence of assembly

I should delete as this didn't turn out real well. I wanted to show you how to make the cable end for the carb made out of a single strand of copper phone wire wrapped around the cable and silver soldered and there is an example of the wrapping and a finished end I made these just for this post on a scrap piece of cable ther's more ways to do this I find this very simple to do. The silver solder to me is important don't want the end to get loose and go through the engine and that is where it will go if it gets a chance. Nasty picture.

bottom picture is a little out of focus but shows how the thing looks assembled correctly