Motorized bicycle engine top end rebuild and an engine stand

Guys I've been working all day today first on building an engine stand and taking pictures of this then I took the engine off the bike and tore it down taking pictures and doing some mild performance things that any of you can do I was going to get wild with it but after taking it apart and seeing its a bushed rod on both ends I pussed out as this engine wouldn't last 5 minutes doing what I had in mind to do. Anyway I'll maybe start tonight on the posts but I'm still puting the engine back in the bike and almost done So when I do start the pictures could you wait until I'm done before you make any comments on this post or if you can't wait and want to ask something pm me instead ok? I'll start as soon as I get the bike going. There's I think over 30 pictures so it will take a while.
Norman

Ater writing the opening on the board I found out my engine has bushing on both ends instead of needle bearing( I kind of figured it did) so no real hot rodding on this but we will go from off the bike to back together on the engine and that is where it will stop cause putting it all back on is only a reverse of takin it all off. I feel naughty when I say that

Attached Thumbnails

     

use vice grips to work arm to help get the cable out of arm same when you go to put it in, saves your fingers.

Here is whats under the clutch arms cover a ball that alot of you loose and a short rod the ball goes in first then the rod and grease everthing before you assemble it and note the screws the long screw goes on top at the back and doubles as the front chain guard mount.

Attached Thumbnails

   

1. master link notice the open end is pointing to the rear when you are looking at the link as chain goes to the front sprocket, Top chain run.


2. this is the easy way to remove the master link clip pliers are pushing the open end off or towards the front pops off the pin in the rear and to come off so easy and you will not loose it this way.


3. see the clip is off the rear pin


4. the little booger that give people fits 10-4! amen and so on.

Attached Thumbnails

       

1 & 2. I'm going to take the ignitioncoil out and leave it hanging on the bike cause the wiring goes through the frame and I don;t want to fish it through again.next pic. is the coil hanging.


3 & 4. no paint under front or rear mount I think this helps to keep the engine from wearing away the paint and that would allow the mounts to come loose then you get to walk or pedal.

Attached Thumbnails

       

engine is on the table and I'm going to sort of match the gaskets to the ports opening intake and exhaust using the dremel tool but not now next is a engine stand to make the engine easier to work on.

Attached Thumbnails

     

using scrap tubing and some strap this is what i'm making what I didn't know is the strap is stainless sreel and I can't gas weld stainless so in the next couple of pic I figure this out and cut a different strap. I did try to arc weld but being out of pratice I burned through the tubing really badly so while cussing I made the changes.



TADA! looks like it will work and make life a little easier and its made out of scrap

Attached Thumbnails

     

off with its head and a look in the cylinder a little tapping on the side of the head and cylinder with your hand will free it up do not take a screw driver and pry it apart or a hammer as you will tear something up and thats not the idea of what we are doing if you got a stuck piston in the cylinder use a wooden dowel or hammer handle and tap on the piston while pullin up on the cylinder get inventive but don't tear it up

Attached Thumbnails

   

I'm using a .004 thinner head gasket bumps up the compression a little.


put shop rags in place before you pull piston completely out of cylinder that way you won't loose anything in the crankcase good idea for rags when working on the rings or piston so stuff doesn't jump into the crankcase when you aren't looking (gremlins you know)

Attached Thumbnails

     

How the rings fit on the piston and where the ring locator pin are and how the rings fit etc.



Pulling out all of the studs I'm doing this to make it easier to clean the surface where the cylinder base gasket will go the old one is toast when you clean the surface don't gouge the surface. I use a gasket scraper and the dremels wire wheel.

Attached Thumbnails