How2: Bike Bug drive wheel removal

Greetings... I was able to unscrew the retaining nut and washer holding the drive wheel onto my Bike Bug. However I'm unable to remove the drive wheel itself. The rubber will need replacing soon if I continue using it. The manual just says loosen the nut. I did that but @*~% doesn't budge!

Gianni in London

I haven't seen or worked one one of these so I can't tell you how to pull that off.
Norman

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did you try dw-40 spray a bit on the nut and wait 1 day....try again..those bugs looks cool!

I don't know what you are working on is this a friction wheel drive? if the friction wheel is stuck on and it a rubber or plastic try wrapping it with a towel then pouring boiling water or hot water on it( be careful so you don't burn yourself) let it warm up it will quickly, less than a minute best guess, it might expand enough to get it off. can you pet a 3 jaw or 2 jaw puller on it?
norman

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Thanks guys. I did use a bit of graphite based penetrating oil last Sunday, inside part 15 where 16 & 17 meet.
I'll have another go at it.



G

if its metal you can heat it up a little to help get it off penetrating oil is a good idea if you can find one a gear puller will help or a bearing puller. you don't live in my country or neighborhood or I could help you hand on. Do you have an auto parts store that will lend out pullers? If so take the parts to them and see if you can get a puller that will work.
Norman

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The probelm is generally that the pin in the keyway slot is frozen to the shaft with rust.

I have found that PB Breaker works tremenousliy better than WD 40. PB Breaker is generally on sale at Big Lots for $1.00+ a can. I let it soak awhile then tap on the nut with a hammer, alternate holding the drive wheel upside down and right side up.

Never have had to use heat in repairing 100s of these for customers.

Mike Schneider
713 962 2681
sales@bikebug.net
Bike Bug

there's the answer for you gianni1 ,sounds like msamigo has done this a few times. thanks for your answer msamigo!
Norman

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Repair Pointers for TAS Spitz & Bike Bugs
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Probably you are going to need a fuel pump kit $25. The rubber diaghram gives out with time and exposure to gasoline. The drive wheel rubber may gone or in good condition. You can tell by looking at it and squeezing it. This hard firm & good shape - OK. If not a new drive wheel is $28.

Newer engine models than yours (I am guessing age of yours) were equipped with a primer pump $25. Engines equipped with it do start easier and the pump will last longer. Plus it gives a method to test the fuel pump is properly installed - the engine block can be busted if the engine is attempted to start with a block full of fuel.

If you plan to mount the engine on a newer model bike (1970 – up) the forks are 5-1/2” wide center to center tan bike forks were in the (1960s). You will need a mounting kit - $15 to spread out the frame of the engine and have the drive wheel run true.

PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE OLD HOSES TO "Carburetor and Fuel Pump" WITHOUT RECEIVING THE LITERATURE FIRST. Fuel lines may be hardened and cracked - you can buy replacements for $5.00 (These do not cause air bubbles problems in the carburetor (which will probably need cleaning to - simple to do - Don't turn adjusting bolt on bottom). Will provide you some tips on doing this that will prevent allot of headaches and repairs in literature.

REPAIRS YOU CAN DO PRIOR TO RECEIVING LITERATURE.

Other than that - what is the condition of the gas tank? If it was drained. It would be good to flush it with a little fresh gas. If not put some bolts & nuts in with some camping fuel (white gas) and shake them it around to knock off the old varnish and rust. If it is badly rusted there are commercial gas tank cleaning kits other folks have used from automobile part stores that work well. I have put some of my old gas tanks in the dishwasher with dish washing power inside - very caustic and will get out rust. Might knock off paint though so you have to make a judgment call on that plus what the wife thinks about that.
An electronic method that works well on some tanks is as follows:
use a power washer to remove all loose rust and sediment. I then fill
the tank with water and add a tablespoon of Arm & Hammer soda for every
gallon of water. Then get a battery charger and connect the positive
(red) terminal to a piece of wire attached to a stainless electrode
(such as a stainless bolt or a stainless spoon) and lower the wire and
electrode into the water making sure it does not touch the bottom or
sides. This is the anode. Then attach the negative terminal to the
tank itself (The cathode). If your charger has a meter, be sure some
current is flowing. Fine bubbles will rise from the stainless anode when
cleaning is in progress. Typical cleaning time for moderately rusted
objects is a few hours. Heavily rusted objects can be left over night.
Then wash the inside of the tank again and dry it out with compressed
air or a hair dryer.

The foot valve in the gas tank may be frozen too. You can free it up with BD Breaker (automobile part stores) after you cut the old felt off. If it does rattle when you shake it - boil it on the stove top in cooking oil (there again - be careful about the wife's opinion on that). You can buy new felt - cut some round holes it and slip it over the valve. If the valve still won't rattle or you can't blow but can suck through it. It may be shot. Have replacements for $15.
You can also check for fire or spark on the engine by taking out the spark plug and turning the drive wheel by hand. 1st look for the spark and if none try the twinkle test by holding the spark plug and turning the drive wheel. If no twinkle then remove the three bolts on the flywheel cover (where starting instructions are posted). Take a 12 or 13 mm socket mounted on a rechargeable drill and turn the engine with it. No spark try a electric cord drill (Be careful doing this). Don’t want to turn the engine too fast without getting everything freed up first.