can't find an answer then ask me

I do not do the crank balancing my self so I don't have photos.

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Norman, two problems: 49cc black slant from zoombicycles, running 32:1, well over 200 miles, riding daily to campus and back for the last month.
1) power/speed/torque on takeoff, but ride for 45 seconds and it all goes away. after that, starting is embarrasing, wont get out of its own way and boggs horribly. eventually it gets up to speed, although slower than I've previously gone, used to hit 28 mph. I shut the fuel off, just to see, it gets lively again right before running dry so I think it has to much fuel. c clip is on the top notch. I had to make a new intake tube, to hold the carb out to the side and level, w space for the filter, so that may be the problem... its a little longer and larger diameter. I have also drilled a huge hole through the back of the air filter plastic housing. is there some other adjustment I can make before going back to the original intake? if I do that the carb sits at a cant, as well as no space for the filter, which I guess is a big mistake...
2) ran out of gas and had to pedal about 3 miles yesterday, now my clutch squeaks horribly. shouldnt be permanant damage, should it? just grease needed or what?

You need to see just what dia the main jet is. sounds like it is way too rich I solder them shut and redrill them. Some people on here say that is a no no for me it works very well. I use a hand vice
which is what the drill tool is called you can get these at most hobby shops it a tool for very small
dia. drill bit you use it by hand power. I've also picked up a set of micro drill bit in metric sizes
I'll post a link here so I don't have to go into detail you can see just what I'm telling you about you will have to do a little looking and reading.
Motorized Bicycle Carburetor install and rebuild
permalink #6 is the tool and sizes
I think if you would take off the clutch cover that has the clutch arm on it and remove the short shaft and ball it will look a bit dry. regrease them and see if your clutch is now quiet again.
When those parts get a little dry they will make a sound like cats in a fight, nasty sounding or like when old Rufus has got his tail stepped on.
Norman

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H'lo Norm I just read your post on complete engine teardown, after I finished replacing the gasket where the jug meets the crankcase. I made some mistakes but when I was finished she started right up. I got a complete gasket set & used one for a template to make a gasket from rubber-cellulose gasket material. I broke one of the piston rings trying to get it off (don't ask) so I got a coupla those too. I found the trickiest part of the job was the re-attachment of the piston to the crankshaft. There was alot of gosh, darn & oops!!! I had used a shop rag to cover the crankcase so I was all right there. Still, getting everything lined up so I could reinsert the wrist pin was a bear. I never even thought of paying any attention to which way the piston was installed. I figured it had a top & a bottom & I was pretty sure I could get that right. My question is this; should I have put any special lubricant on the roller bearings for the wrist pin or is the oil in the gas sufficient?
Billy02

It is a good idea to lube everything up when assembling the engine. You don't want it dry for start up.

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Thanks for the quick response Norm. The keeper went in without a problem & it's secure. I was surprised to read that they usually won't go back in. I have already put 5 miles on it & nothing blew up. When I was breaking it in I was told by the seller to use a tank with twice the normal amount of oil mixed with the gas. Then a tank with 1.5 times the normal amount & the normal amount (100-1) thereafter. Is it too late to put oil in as you suggested? If so, what about another tank with twice the normal amount of oil? B02

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I use 40 to 1 polan syn. oil sold at walmart. There is no need to add oil to the engine if you've been running it. for break in you might want to run 24 to 1 mix up one gallon at 24 to 1 use it up then go to the mix you want to run. you will notice a change in the engine as it breaks in it will start to run better.
you were asking about lights clink on the link below
lights

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Hi Norman

What method do you use for removing the left and right crankshaft bearings from their respective shafts.

I've tried brute force, i've tried using heat and brute force and i've tried using heat, brute force and bad language, but nothing will get these bearings free from their shafts.
It's almost like the factory heated the bearings in a furnace and chilled the crankshaft in liquid nitrogen before press fitting things together.

I am at a total loss as to the methods of removal.

Fabian

those bearing can be a booger to get off. Most of the time they stay in the case and not on the crank
I do the same as your doing heat, cold ,cuss throw things. I do have a special bearing puller
don't have a photo of it but its a "C" shaped thing that you attach a 2bolt puller to work the "c" shaped thing behind the bearing and attach the puller and cuss away.
You might try to heat the bearing a little and using a couple of small pry bars work the bearing off
last resort is break out the cut off wheel and cut off the bearing if its on real tight your going to wreak it (the bearing). Might as well get new ones probably will be easier in the long run.
They people that installed the bearings probably cussed them putting them on if that will make you feel any better?
good luck

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Hey Norman,

Do you have any suggestions on how to connect to the throttle arm on the honda 50cc engine, once the governor has been disassembled? It is a small black triangle with two very small holes in it. unfortunately the holes arent centered over the actual throttle butterfly so I cant do a simple, stiff mount seesaw with a spring and throttle cable competing for torque, or at least I would have to modify it a bit.