Board Tracker or 1910s replica? Dunno...

Doktor Puttz · #1 (**permalink**) 11-26-2009, 05:35 PM

Working on a Huffy Cranbrook, going for that vintage look. The bike came with cream color fenders against a "champagne" color frame. Looks so nice that way! In spite of y'all telling horror stories and giving warnings about the dreaded fender mishaps, still wondering if I can get away with it. Thoughts?

bairdco · #2 (**permalink**) 11-26-2009, 08:47 PM

as long as you beef up the fender supports they should be fine. you can get some Wald fender struts for cheap, and that should do it.

if you want a vintage looking cranbrook, use it for a boat anchor in the atlantic for a coupla weeks...

Doktor Puttz · #3 (**permalink**) 11-26-2009, 11:29 PM

The struts are not stamped metal cheapies. They are round rod, chromed, attached with bolts and backing plates. I feel pretty good about them.

Soon as I can post pix, I'll put some up. Hope to be done with the build in couple days.

doc

MotorbikeMike · #4 (**permalink**) 11-27-2009, 08:43 PM

Doktor, does the front wheel have 2 braces up to the fender, or only one? If only one, it will not matter if tin, wire, or structural steel, you will find that you need 2 braces on the front fender, in addition to the tab.

As we have seen here, there are 2 ways to decide if you need 2 braces, the easy way and the hard way.

Those who have chosen the hard way will never forget it, including Cliff in Fairfield CA who got a trip to the Hospital, and some painful recovery time.

As always, the choice is yours.

Mike

tyrslider · #5 (**permalink**) 11-28-2009, 12:39 AM

Mikes right! If it breaks, before you know it your broken.

Doktor Puttz · #6 (**permalink**) 11-28-2009, 10:17 PM

Mike....point taken, I like to err on the side of caution. The front fender has 2 tabs going both sides of the fork arch, and the rods on either side at 3-o-clock position on the trailing side. Top of fender hangs out only a couple inches past the forks and is surrounded by a caliper brake I added for extra stoppage. It's also a stamped fender with ridges and grooves along both edges for stiffness. I'm more confident about that design than the thin rolled fenders you see sometimes. Just the same, when I get the bike finished and take a couple of "shakedown" rides I'll be watching the whole setup for drift and will remove them ASAP if they appear to wobble too much at speed. My old guy bod is sorry enough without adding more injuries.

Doc

Doktor Puttz · #7 (**permalink**) 11-30-2009, 06:46 PM

UPDATE...Cranbroook is built and pedal-tested...ready for fuel and road test!

Doc

Doktor Puttz · #8 (**permalink**) 12-01-2009, 06:57 PM

Gassed up and road tested...coupla tweaks and it's good!

tyrslider · #9 (**permalink**) 12-02-2009, 03:27 AM

interesting seat post action whats holdin it?

Doktor Puttz · #10 (**permalink**) 12-02-2009, 11:35 AM

Well...being a Florida guy, I went to West Marine!
First pic: Flipped the clamps on the seat mount to make the seat sit lower on the post.

2nd pic: Used a 1" boat rail straight socket mount. Works with the frame angle just right. (You can also get them in 60-degree tilt.) Held in place with 4 heavy duty stainless rubber sheathed clamp/clips (Ancor Marine), high grade bolts and globs of threadlock.

3d pic: Seat post held in place by 2 socket set screws on the rail mount. I figgered if they will hold you hangin' over the boat rail in a gale, it'll hold my lardazz on the bumps. So far, ees good.

Doc