clutch not engaging.

Dan · #1 (**permalink**) 04-14-2009, 07:47 PM

After about 80 miles, my Grubee clutch is no longer engaging. It is making contact but not turning the wheel. All keys are in good order, the clutch is just sliding. It gets hot enough to smoke but no out put to the rear ratcheting 11T sprocket. The 11T is fine and does not get even slightly warm and is not spinning. Litium grease had been dabbed on the gears only.

Any thoughts? Aside from the dabs of lithium, it has been run dry only.

HoughMade · #2 (**permalink**) 04-14-2009, 09:39 PM

Something in that gearbox has to be siezed up. Intermediate clutch drum? Can you spin it with your hand? Intermediate gear? Final gear? Take it apart and see what moves and what does not.

Dan · #3 (**permalink**) 04-14-2009, 09:48 PM

Yeppers. Not a thing, not spinning freely by hand. Looks and moves perfect. Just won't turn under even the slightest strain. At half to 1/4 throttle it just starts to pull, then starts sliding and making heat. Has been apart and reassembled 3 times today. Also opened the clutch by hand and all 3 portions travel. I am stumped. At a gocart web page they suggested any kind of oil would render a clutch useless, but that ain't right as they can be run wet. Really dunno....

bobdirt · #4 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 05:49 PM

Is there a possibility the clutch shoes are glazed? Running with dabs of grease will make the gearbox run hot and could of lead to glazing. I grease the crap out of my grubees. Make sure to grease the bushing at the clutch. I drill a hole in the gearbox cover, drill and tap then whenever the bushing starts to grab a squirt of oil of grease.

Dan · #5 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 07:35 PM

Wow Bob, 2Door just asked the same thing. I really think that might be the answer. Well, cause. I am going to tear down the clutch, spring and all and see if it is just not opening freely then if that fails, try and clean the pads. (I really should have gone with heavy flow ones)

I was thunking that the lithium saturated the bell housing but you guy's thought makes more sense. (if not the travel of the 3 sections of clutch)

Just checked the travel and took pics. Every thing works save the clutch turning the wheel.

**Bikeguy Joe** · #6 (**permalink**) 04-16-2009, 06:52 AM

Maybe you should lay off the donuts?

Dan · #7 (**permalink**) 04-16-2009, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bikeguy Joe

Maybe you should lay off the donuts?

(^*%*%*^%^%%%#@!+_>< Joe%&^%&%&%+&)*Joe)*%#$@!$$%^Joe)

hehe, good to see ya around Joe. I was asking about ya last night.

Dan · #8 (**permalink**) 04-24-2009, 04:09 PM

New clutch arrived from Bicycle-engines.com. really well packaged with a lil ty note inside. Put it on and fired her up and it just spun. Every thing in/on the GB is working. Engine sounds really good, too good. Can a woodruff be partially broken but intact enough to pull start?

jacliny · #9 (**permalink**) 04-27-2009, 05:03 PM

Dan i just got back to it and can't figure out how to get the clutch off! the rtetaining bolt came out but the clutch is on solid! any ideas? Told you these four strokes werent worth it! lol

jacliny · #10 (**permalink**) 04-27-2009, 07:47 PM

well i got it off, was almost welded to the spaceer bushing(poor design) cleaned and lubed it good, seems to run much better now, at least it will idle!lol
I dont think the woodruff key on the clutch side would have anything to do with starting.
The flywheel key should take care of that.If the flywheel key is partialy sheared it will cause a shift in timing, that may be the reason it runs "Too Good"!! I know years ago it was a problem with some outboard motors, a new key would cure it but eventually a new flywheel would be in order. Is the clutch working well now? (did you remember to put it in gear? SNORK!)I dont like these gear boxes! but the alternatives as of now are to rich for my blood./