Anti-Vvvvvibration engine mounts for us?

I have searched through some of the mounting technique threads and most seem to be for 2 strokes. I am currently working on an isolating mount for my stretch, which is a 4 stroke. I think I am onto something, but have any of you experimented with this? It's not so bad on the normal bike. The stretch just seems to have more vibration than I want. I would like to see or hear about any of your experiences before I start hacking up my new creation. I really don't want to mount the engine more than 2 or 3 times in the beginning. Thanks for any input.

i finnished biology and i have a thick rubber mat i could make rubber feet out of like they do on generators
du u think it would work

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That definitely couldn't hurt. The only problem I have with that is space, on my particular bike. I can't move up any and I can't move down much. The frame space is a lot tighter on this bike than any other's I've done. I am working on welding a piece of half inch pipe, perpendicular, to the square tubing I had to weld in the bike to mount the motor. Through the pipe will be some tight fitting rubber hose. I will have to modify or completely fabricate another motor mount to bolt up to a bolt through the hose inside the pipe. I have no idea if this will work like I want, but it is all I could come up with, so far. I very much thank you for any help or ideas any of you may have.

This is a must. I have had several miscelaneus bolts vibrate out of my bike from the vibration at certain rpms. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread and pondering some ideas that reduce vibration and don't give too much flex in the mounts placement. Locktight everything.

Alright, I'm going to go ahead and give this a shot. I'll try to get this done over the weekend and take several pics along the way. Wish me luck.

OK. This seems to be the ticket! I haven't ridden the bike yet, should this afternoon or tomorrow, but with the back tire off the ground and the engine running the vibration is GREATLY!!!! reduced.
First, I cut out the original mount that I welded in.
Then I took a 6" long 1/2 in diameter pipe nipple and cut it into 2 1.5" lengths.
I also cut some rubber hose that fits tightly into the pipe about 1.75" lengths.
Welded the pipe pieces to the existing motor mount and inserted the tube into the pipe.
Sorry, I think I have to reply again. Maximum pics.

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I also fabbed up another motor plate and cut some thick pieces of rubber to fit between the motor plate and the pipe to keep them from touching and allow for alignment. I was amazed at how much difference I could immediately see when I fired up the engine. I still have to paint and tweak a little, but it seems to work well. Hope this helps somebody.

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Civlized, Good Morning. Looks Good. Now You Can Move The Motor Rite And Left With Washers. With Sloted Motor Bolt Holes You Can Go Forward And Back For Chain Tension. Are You Going To Put A Support Under The Sq Tube Behind The Rear Mount? Ron

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Hi Ron. I am going to put a support under that tube. I just couldn't manage to make myselft do it before I tried it also because of the time. I was in the shop 'till about 2am working on this last night. Now it is raining in Alabama, so I don't want to try riding it and I have to take the wife shopping. So, I guess I can tinker later today or tomorrow. I am also changing my wheels. Finally got them finished so that I can freewheel and not coaster brake.

Civlized. Your Setup Should Work Good. If You Get To Much Movement, You Could Go To Larger Dia Bolts. Put Hand Cleaner On Them To Slide In. I Have Drawn A Crude Pic Of Another Easy Cheap Way. Use Threaded Studs Screwed Into The Bottom Of The Motor {better Than Bolts, As U Use All The Threads For Maximum Strength). This Is A Hurry Up Drawing, I Have Orders To Cut The Grass!! Ron ON SECOND THOUGHT, MAY NEED TO ISOLATE STEEL SLEEVE FROM STEEL MOUNT PLATE. THERE IS A COMMON RUBBER MOUNT WITH A STUD STICKING OUT EACH SIDE OF THE RUBBER. I THINK 3/8" NC IS COMMON.

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PUMP YOUR BRAKES
NEVER BEAT ON IT, GET A BIGGER HAMMER