4 stroke clutch adjustment

jacliny · #1 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 08:44 AM

Does anyone know how to have the clutch engage at a higher rpm on a china 4 stroke (dont know how to spell it! I think its pronounced washing like the machine! lol) with a grubee gearbox? Mine engages at a complete idle, even when pull starting it slightly engages. Needless to say its almost unrideable! When you engage the gearbox i have it idling so low it stalls and if i boost up the idle it then crashes in horribly then stalls! Well, thanks guys ahead of time i'm sure someone will have the answer.

toytime · #2 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 10:16 AM

Is it possible that the little wieghts inside the clutch need a little lube? Could they be stuck in "on" mode?

Dan · #3 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 02:57 PM

Have the same problem. At bare idle, tries to jump and jiggle forward. The clutch is engaging to early. I am sure their is an easy fix, but have not found it yet. Will be hard on the clutch as is.

glacknoid · #4 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 10:04 PM

I think some people have tried lightering up the three sections of the clutch by drilling some holes in each of the three pie pieces to lighten them up so the centrufugal force doesnt open them up as easily.

Dan · #5 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 10:18 PM

odd, off topic and bizzar question, which way did every ones clutch come facing? Mine is with the springs turned outward. Also according to Grubee website, there are supposed to be ball bearings in the mounts on either side of each gear. I have found none.

LOL, clutch is completely no go now. but engine sounds much happier, lol, snork, snork.
(where is that gun?)

glacknoid · #6 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 10:36 PM

I put both mine on clutch spring faceing in towards the engine Jeremy from bicycle-engines told me plus I think the photo in my instructions showed it that way. I believe the inside half of the gearbox houseing that mount to the motor has one bearing for the middle gear and the outside half has two with bearings for the middle and final gear. They should be sealed bearings pressed into the houseing for the shaft on the gears to ride in.

glacknoid · #7 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 10:48 PM

MY first grubee puchased oct 2008 does the same thing with my honda, it keeps trying to engage the clutch bell at idle. Don Grubee emailed me saying the honda engine idles at a higher rpm than the HS motor and the clutch garter spring was designed to engage at 1800 to 2000 rpm, which was low for the honda. I just recieved another grubee a month ago for a different bike, but I have'nt ran it enough to be sure since I havent' mounted it on a bike yet but it may have a stronger garter spring or be weighted different but it doesn't seem as chattery but I'll have to pay more attention next time I fire it up.

Dan · #8 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glacknoid

I put both mine on clutch spring faceing in towards the engine Jeremy from bicycle-engines told me plus I think the photo in my instructions showed it that way. I believe the inside half of the gearbox houseing that mount to the motor has one bearing for the middle gear and the outside half has two with bearings for the middle and final gear. They should be sealed bearings pressed into the houseing for the shaft on the gears to ride in.

Very, very cool Glack, thank you. (I can stop looking for the gun now)

You think replacing the clutch with an adjustable one would work? I might write Maxtorque and ask if they have sold any for this purpose. Really like them. Great customer service and advise.

glacknoid · #9 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 11:27 PM

not sure about the adjustable one

cityevader · #10 (**permalink**) 04-12-2009, 01:44 AM

IT'S NOT THE CLUTCHES!!!!

I've been meaning to post my issues, and forgot to get pics while fixing. The problem is there are no bearings between the clutch bell housing and the engine shaft.

The design is ludicrous because there is bare metal to metal with no lubrication whatsoever, and whenever the clutches are not engaged (idle, coasting) the crankshaft is spinning and clutch bell is not and metal-on-metal rubbing heats/binds.
Remove the bolt that holds the clutch onto crankshaft. Remove the clutch bell with crank diameter "adapter" and clean/lube where they spin and rub together. Repeat in a few hours of use when it starts acting up again.