How would I raise my engine?

5-7HEAVEN · #1 (**permalink**) 09-13-2008, 11:18 PM

Hi. The guys in this DIY are the most creative and imaginative, so please help me solve my problem. I have Staton dual friction drive assemblies, one on each wheel. I alternately run the engines and sometimes I run them together. When they run together, they're fine. When they run separately, the running engine has to work harder and over come the other engine's roller drag, which I can feel. I can cure the rear engine by changing to a Staton chain drive gearbox that I have. I need to fab or buy a contraption that will raise and lower the front friction drive assembly. I know it can be done with clutch cable, clutch lever and miscellaneous hardware, or even telescopic or center overide brackets. I just can't picture it in my head.

Can anyone help? TIA.

deacon · #2 (**permalink**) 09-13-2008, 11:40 PM

Picture a hinge and a cable to lift the engine from a brake lever. You do not have to lift it far to get it clear of the wheel.

5-7HEAVEN · #3 (**permalink**) 09-14-2008, 12:17 AM

Thanks for responding, deacon. The Staton assembly is actually hinged at the front mounting bracket, then locked onto its support struts in the rear. So I loosen the rear support and the whole shebang will pivot at the front hinge and slide up and down in the rear support rods.

Am I correct?

In my head, I can now see the engine assembly lifting off the tire when I squeeze the lever. The Happy Time engine has a locking clutch lever and cable that would do the job. I can also use a simple bar bracket bolted onto the rear support to secure the cable and provide an anchoring point for leverage to pull up the engine assembly. But when I lower everything, how do I get the roller to press hard enough onto the tire so it won't slip?

Large Filipino · #4 (**permalink**) 09-14-2008, 12:31 AM

iRide is teh man!

YouTube - Motorized bicycle

5-7HEAVEN · #5 (**permalink**) 09-14-2008, 12:48 AM

Okay, I see the large spring, the cable, the L-shaped bracket, the rear support strut. I reviewed the video many times, but I can't see the top bracket which is mounted to the engine/drive assembly. Can someone explain how the L-shaped bracket connects to the top bracket?

The L-shaped bracket would work beter than I imagined, because it has leverage and changes the pull from 180 degrees to 90 degrees.

deacon · #6 (**permalink**) 09-14-2008, 12:52 AM

I dont have that engine so I don't gave a mental image of it....

5-7HEAVEN · #7 (**permalink**) 09-14-2008, 01:45 AM

deacon, if you can picture a block of wood 4" wide, 6" tall and 12" long, that's about the size and shape of the friction assembly. The hinge is on one end and the roller is directly in the middle.

deacon · #8 (**permalink**) 09-14-2008, 01:53 AM

If it has a top cover you can weld or bolt and L bracket to that. If not the do from the side with a straight mending strip from the hardware store,

If the friction system hinges to the back just drill a hole as far down on the case as possible and run the brake cable driectly to the case and lift it with just the cable. You have to just try things till you get one that works, I use a piece of string to test the lift angles on mine. I tie it places and just lift to see how it works.

5-7HEAVEN · #9 (**permalink**) 09-14-2008, 02:24 AM

Thanks again, deacon. I believe I've got it now.

Spikedfox · #10 (**permalink**) 09-16-2008, 10:29 PM

why find something to pull it up, make it pull it down

What Im suggesting is spring loading. so that its resting position is off the tire and when you pull it down say with a thumb shifter (mounted to the front mount of the unit) to aply the tension to the tire.