My new PK 80 suddenly won't accelerate

On first test ride, the engine ran good. Made a couple of trips up and down the block. got full acceleration. The engine chain installation was shaky, so it sat unused for only 1 week while redoing the engine chain (ended up removing tensioner). On test ride now, the engine starts every time, but it will not accelerate at all from a low idle. After about 5-6 seconds, it dies. I can see the line going into the carb is full of fuel. Also, throttle feels the same, and as I go from idle to max, the tone of the engine changes a little, but not speed. Experimented with idle screw adjustment and throttle adjustments but no luck. How can the gas go bad in a week? Still, should I dissasemble and clean out carb?

What does the Chinese plug look like?

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These might be stoopid questions... Is the fuel turned on? & is the choke off?? (choke lever down)

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look your carb over you might of had the main jet tube come unscrewed you will need to take off the float bowl to see. Or the throttle slide is not moving take off the air cleaner to check. Is the air cleaner nasty with excess oil?
The choke could be comming loose and staying on.
Just some of the easy things to check.
I think you fuel is more than likely ok.
here is a champion spark plug that will work L78C
16 to 1 mix or 20 to 1 mix will work fine for breaking it in.
stock plug wire should be fine check to make sure that the ends are on tight,if it pulls loose clip off about 1/4" on the end and reinstall it.

Norman

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What does plug look like? I don't know....just like all spark plugs look. except it has a threaded post connection. I think I will try to match it up with a new one at Autozone, and see if replacing it helps. I don't know what part number in champion or Autolite, etc. to ask for. I did NOT mix the oil 20:1. Its a 16:1 mix because I read that these engines should have an initial mix of 16:1 until broken in, then use 20:1. Oh yes, BTW...choke has been tried in varous positions, and fuel valve is open. Thanks, Jim

You'll need to remove the plug after a hot run and look at the business end. Is it dry brown? Wet black? Glazed gray?

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The plug has dry thin black deposit on it. No part store in town could match the number on plug up with a replacement! One place was able to match up the bore size, but all the ones with right bore size have the usual thick brass snap-on electrical connection. This one just has the thin threaded post. I suspect any plain old lawnmower-type plug would work. I can't think of some way to spin the engine up to actually test the spark with plug out and outer part grounded with a jumper clip to engine ground. (without having a dynamometer to put the rear wheel on that is). Thanks, Jim

Yeah the Chinese part # on the plug won't match up for anything.

You need an NGK B6HS (there are other NGK #'s as well). The cap will unthread, but better to get a real plug wire.

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Im bettin either the main jet came loose or you have an air leak, definitely sound like a lean condition if the throttle is opened, more air & fuel enter the engine but the leak may get worse adding even more air to the engine, air leak + normal metered air + normal metered fuel = alot of air + normal metered fuel == LEAN! Check the carb-manifold connection, manifold-cyl connection, cyl-head connection. Good Luck! -Justin

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Well, I am OK with the 16:1 break-in mix?
thanks, Jim