Exhaust threaded rod sheared off

bigdreamz2000 · #1 (**permalink**) 09-29-2009, 03:17 PM

Well, I've really messed my bike up. I had an exhaust leak around the gasket so I tried to tighten the nut. The rod must have had a fissure because with my small ratchet it sheared off like butter with no effort applied to the nut. Probally had <10ft/lbs of torque. It sheared flush with the casting metal. I tried to easy out the remaining rod but my easy out snapped. So I tried to drill it out and made a sloppy hole. Then my drill bit broke in the sloppy hole, so I had to drill out the drill bit. What should I have done when my threaded rod sheared off? I now have a very big hole in the place where the rod used to be. I filled it with JB weld since it says that it is able to be drilled and tapped. I have new threaded rod to go in but no tapping tools. I've never tapped anything, let alone a JB weld material. What will I need, any hints?

Venice Motor Bikes · #2 (**permalink**) 09-29-2009, 03:26 PM

I think a better way might be to drill the JB weld back out & use a Heli Coil!! That way you still have metal to thread the exaust stud back into!

noco · #3 (**permalink**) 09-29-2009, 04:36 PM

you should have jb welded it....could it have been possible to tap that bigger hole and use a bigger bolt?

freewheeling frank · #4 (**permalink**) 09-29-2009, 05:02 PM

look into the heli coils they work much better than jb, and really arent that hard to do

bigdreamz2000 · #5 (**permalink**) 10-01-2009, 09:46 AM

I am curious to see if JB weld can hold a tap. I did a little looking into tapping and I have what they call a blind hole. Meaning I cannot go through with the tapping bit (because I'd go into the piston), so I need a more expensive flat bottom tapping bit. If that doesn't work, I'll investigate a helicoil.

I'll post back when I get done.

**Bikeguy Joe** · #6 (**permalink**) 10-01-2009, 09:58 AM

If you think the JB will hold after you tap it, just JB Weld the new stud in place. No need to tap out the JB Weld.

bigdreamz2000 · #7 (**permalink**) 10-01-2009, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bikeguy Joe

If you think the JB will hold after you tap it, just JB Weld the new stud in place. No need to tap out the JB Weld.

I forgot to mention that I tried that. The hole being slightly bigger than the rod it was not possible to jam JB weld into the hole and then jam the rod into the JB weld. I was using the putty like stuff, maybe if there is some sort of more plyable, liquid like stuff I might be able to shove the rod in the hole and the excess could squirt out. I got the bottom tap M6 X 1.0 off of Amazon for a little over $7.00 and that includes shipping. Should be here in a few days.

MB-Monkey · #8 (**permalink**) 10-01-2009, 12:59 PM

Note to self make a post arguing the best reasons to use bolts instead of studs......

bigdreamz2000 · #9 (**permalink**) 10-01-2009, 01:42 PM

That's easy, because the pot metal would be very easy to cross thread. Plus it is easier to slide a part on then tighten a nut, rather than have to search for the hole thru the part, then hold it in place and start the bolt. A good compromise would be having the studs made more robustly.

donuts31 · #10 (**permalink**) 10-01-2009, 01:59 PM

Time sert, its idiot proof and I should know because I've used them many times on HT engines.

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