Seat Post

grouchyolfart · #1 (**permalink**) 03-21-2009, 11:33 PM

I picked up a Point Beach for a 2 stroke conversion. I'd like to move the seat back a few inches. Is there anyone selling "adaptors" to set the seat back some? I've seen "lay back" posts. Will these work? Is this what they're for? I'll be flipping the handlebars as well. When I ride it, I feel like I'm leaning back.

Feels kinda wierd and with a bad back, I won't last long riding that way.

Dan · #2 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 01:10 AM

Howdy GF. There are a bunch around and I am waiting on the mail for one for my Point beach. Will let you know. I don't see other then size (ID of seat tube matching the OD of the post), how it could not work well.

Love the Point beaches but they do have you sitting oddly. I feel like my elbows are in and hands out and not far enough back to rest on the seat but rather leaning on the peddles. The front fender really does go fast on em. Had one bracket rot threw in about 6 weeks.

But man they look good!!!

I am also looking for wider handle bars.

Spooky has em. Could give them a call. Spooky Tooth Cycles - Motorized Bicycles: Gas Powered and Electric Bikes - Bent Seat Post with Support 1"

Edit. also ment to say they ride way better as a mb then a bicycle. First time I rode it as a bike I almost brought it back. then with an engine it was way better ridding.

grouchyolfart · #3 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 05:08 AM

Thanks for that input, Dan. It's what I needed. I think I saw some bent posts at a local bike shop. Just so happens I need a new chain whatchajigee so I'll pick up the post at the same time.

I gotta agree. Riding that thing as a bike just doesn't work. <LOL> I'll keep an eye on the fender trusses. Mine were rusty when I bought the thing. I'm debating if I should just remove them and get somekind of aftermarket fenders.

Dan · #4 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 05:27 AM

Please post pics if you do get one. The way the seat "dips" into the frame really looks good. I am wondering how it will look over all with the bent seat post.

The fender thing, shoring it up might be cheaper. I never got around to it and ended up just taking em off and giving them away. Really took a lot away from the looks of the bike. I am thinking of getting black plastic ones and spray painting them with rattle can chrome. The stuff is amazing and looks really close to chrome on metal. Dunno about plastic. I will post pics if it works. (maybe black or red and match the frame) Just got a Honda 4 stroke and the red plastic right side guard matches the red frame!! So am going to try and make her pretty again

**2door** · #5 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 06:32 PM

Grouchy,
I'm currently building a Schwinn Jaguar which I've been told is very similiar if not identical to the Point Beach frame. I made my own 'lay-back' seat post from 1" bar stock. The seat end needs to be turned down to 7/8" to accomodate the seat and I gave myself 6" of travel to the rear. My bars are also flipped so I know all about that werird posture stuff. I'll attach a phot of the as yet unfinished Jag so you can get an idea of what the 'lay-back post will look like before you purchase one. Oh, and by the way; I'm the guy who got Dan's fenders.
Tom

Dan · #6 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 07:02 PM

Oh Man! That is awesome 2Door!! the sprocket, chain tensioner, handlebars, seat... You found a way to make a really cool Board Track Racer like MB/replica for a few hundred bucks. You really have to do a thread. Paint it black and you could sell a bunch of those real fast.

Looking close at her, I can not see a bit of difference between her and a Point Beach. I knew they were close but think you are right and they are identical.

Side note, we were talking about biz cards last night. I did not think of it until you left but I put one of mine in the box mailed to you. It is one of the magnetic ones we were talking about. Printed on preprinted stock to save $ on ink. they work great.

Edit; If it is the exact same bike, the dang kick-stands are junk. I have beat the forward lip or stop with a hammer so the bike would stand. But is back to dropping the bike at the worst times. Norman told me to just put a bolt in it. Great idea and I will get around to it. Might just cut some washers to make the spring tighter. I dunno

**2door** · #7 (**permalink**) 03-22-2009, 10:16 PM

Dan,
Didn't see a business card in the box with the fenders. I hope I didn't pitch it with the box and peanuts they were packed in. Rats!
Your seat post is exactly like the one I made for the Jag. They're a little heavy but not so much as to drag you down. I love the way my Jag sits now; really comfortable with the seat moved back. I'll ship it Tuesday. Let me know what you think. I just painted the fuel tank today, first coat of blue but I need to get the white stripes on it then the bike will be ready for a test run. I'm getting anxious. I've put too much time in this one and concentrated on the asthetics. Hope I didn't screw up.
Tom

graucho · #8 (**permalink**) 03-23-2009, 12:50 AM

You may have figured out your seat post situation but here's another supplier. The post that has the extra support added... sets you back a good 6 in. The posts that are just bent... set you back 4 in.

If not for you, this could be a link for others.

Saddles : Seat Posts - Choppers U.S., LLC

grouchyolfart · #9 (**permalink**) 04-07-2009, 10:15 PM

Here's a pic of my new lay back seat post.

2door, now that I set myself back a bit, I no longer have to flip the bars. What I did do, though, is to turn them down a bit so my arms and wrists aren't always bent in different directions.

Dan, I got this one from a local bike shop. It's a 1" tube squeezed down to 3/4" for the seat clamp. The only draw back with this is my PB tube is just a bit larger. Nothing a little duct tape couldn't handle. Also, you really gotta dog down the seat clamp or the seat will try to twist around the tube. That Schwinn seat is going. I'll be spending another 40 bucks for a more comfortable and nicer looking seat.

The setback of the tube is just right where I can pedal with almost full extension of my legs without having to raise the seat. I hate feeling like I'm riding a kiddie bike, all scrunched up. Now it feels like a semi recumbent. Oh yeah, I'll be looking for something better than the duct tape. It's just what I had on hand..........all the time.

Now I have to figure out how to install my new chrome springer forks. The tube is too long and I need spacers. Also, if i shorten the tube to the stock length, the anchor piece for the spring bolt dimensions change. The angle gets way off and I wouldn't be able to thread the bolt in. I decided to leave it long and just put spacers. Gotta make another visit to the bike shop. Here's a pic of my PB with the new front end.

Right now, because I can't secure that upper bolt, there's lots of lateral play. I believe someone else had the same problem for a bit. My head set is already tight.

**2door** · #10 (**permalink**) 04-07-2009, 11:04 PM

Grouchy,
I'd suggest cutting the steering tube to the length of your original plus the thickness of the spring perch. Do not remove the spring center bolt, loosen it if you feel it necessary but flex the fork (spring) to get the perch over the steering tube. Trying to get that center bolt started again after you have the perch on the tube is darn near impossible and you run the risk if crossthreading it. I ran into the same problem on my old Roadmaster and found that flexing the fork was much easier than getting the bolt back in. Also I'd suggest either double nutting the spring bolt or using loc-tite on the threads. Hope this helps out. By the way, that's a very pretty bike, sir.
Tom
I just read this and realized that I should explain what I mean by flexing the fork. Simply apply weight to the front of the bike, enough to compress the spring which will allow the perch to be slid down in place. Also when cutting the steering tube you might consider running the nut down past your cut point then using it to clean up the threads after cutting by backing it off over the end where you cut.
Tom