Any tips for mounting a 70cc on a Schwinn Jaguar?

That one looks like it will push the pin all the way out. Have no idea what i Bought but it goes 1/2 way then you are stuck trying to pull chain apart by hand.

These work great for bikes with smaller chain stays.
Cupped washers for chain tensioner

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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

Hey Bikeguy Joe, they are exactly what I used but they did not work right and I ended up stripping the bolts on the tensioner so I just gave up on it and shortened the chain.

TJBunch look below at my delight for this thing, it is superb and it knocked the pin right out with hardly any effort.

Ok first let me say....BUY BUY BUY This chain tool Chain-A-Part Motorcycle chain cutter tool pick the "Model B-5035 for Metric sizes 415-520 Series Roller Chains". This thing kicks ass and makes life a heck of a lot easier. I popped the pin out in under a minute compared to like 20 min struggling with the other tool.

Now I had to work 4 hours overtime so i am a bit tired right now but I used the new chain tool, got the chain to the correct size, skipped chain tensioner all together and GOT HER RUNNIN!!!!

I was zipping up and down my street, looking at every part, making sure everything was ok. I must say I was very nervous something was gonna go bad or a chain was gonna fly up and destroy my leg. She ran great and started right up every time i kicked the clutch out. So many people were looking at me and making comments and wanting to know where I got it. Very cool!

The gas cap leaks when I make hard turns Im not sure what im gonna do about this but it is a minor detail. Also the engine now has a brown tint to it. Not sure if this is burnt paint or whatever, just something i noticed.

The engine runs smooth at higher rpms but lower it kinda put put PUTS around.

All in all I must say it was a successful build and thank you to all that helped out. I now just have to figure out how to get the dam chain guard on and I am 100% complete. (Any tips?)


For everyone waiting for pics I plan on making a very detailed post including many pics to help anyone interested in building the JAG. I was gonna start today but I was forced the 4 hours overtime and now I have to sleep a few hours and go work again

Look for the post some time between tomorrow and Monday.

One question, what are 'ya gonna do when the chain stretches a country mile like they are known to do? There can't be that much adjustment on the drop outs.

Tips from Bikeguy Joe's Garage....chain gaurd- mount it inside your closest garbage can.
That brown tint to your engine can be removed with brake or carb cleaner if you don't have a painted engine. It's a coating of 'preservative' like cosmoline or something. I spray all mine before mounting so it doesn't bake on.

Do NOT use EZ Off oven cleaner on your engine unless you want a nice dark charcol color to it....which is not always a bad thing-

Attached Thumbnails

 

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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

Thanks for the info Bikeguy! I found just the garbage can to mount to :P

As for the chain, I did not know chains stretched. They wear out over time but I never thought they would stretch. I am using one I purchased from Northerntool.com are these known to stretch as well?

Doller I think all the chains stretch a little the better ones just do it slower.

The chains that come with the china kits (or the sprockets, or both) wear in for a long time and the chain (on the three I've built) need constant adjusting for a couple hundred miles....hopefully your chain will do better.

__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

Technically, I don't think they stretch as much as the moving parts all seat and wear and that makes the tolerances looser, thus making the chain longer ie- stretching.

__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

Here is my mega description on how to install an engine on a Schwinn Jaguar.

Note: Click all images for much bigger ones.

First thing I did was make sure the bike was built correctly and make sure everything was nice and tight.

After that I sized up the engine by sitting it in different positions until I found the one I liked. I ended up taking off the bikes chain guard so I could get the engine to sit nice.



The only other problem was the front studs were too short and as you can see I could barely get the nuts on.



So I went on a mission to find an all thread rod that was M6X1.0. I tried Home Depot and they had rods but none were metric So I tried Lowes, Advanced Auto, Pep Boys, Auto Zone.... No one had metric. So I searched online and found a great site. Fastener Mart

Here is what I bought from them.

MRD160-1452 M6-1.0 x 1 meter Threaded Rod DIN 975, A2 Stainless Steel, 1 pc 1 $6.76

These lock nuts kick ass! It is tough getting them on so no way they are coming off
MNT169-9912 M6-1.0 Hex All Metal Prevailing Torque Lock Nut DIN 980V, Class 10, Zinc Plated, 100 pcs 1 $5.83

MWS109-6992 M6 Split Lock Washer DIN 127, A2 Stainless Steel, 100 pcs 1 $3.06

MWS109-6972 M6 Flat Washer DIN 125A, A2 Stainless Steel, 100 pcs 1 $2.63

Sales Tax: $0.00
Shipping: 2nd Day Air: $14.91
You obviously dont have to do 2nd day air but I wanted everything fast!

Order Total: $33.19

While I was waiting for my parts I found a great PDF file that guides you step by step through the building process. http://www.livefastmotors.com/pdf/two_cycle.pdf

When my parts arrived I began by cutting the all thread rod. I cut 2 pieces 2 and a quarter inches and they worked perfectly for the front studs. To remove the old studs I put one nut half way on the stud and then tightened another nut to the first nut then I just began turning the first nut to loosen it and the stud began coming out.

When I mounted the engine I used the factory nuts and then the lock nuts I purchased.

After the engine was nice and mounted I started putting on the rear sprocket. Now the PDF instructions say you may have to file away the inside. I did not have to do that and neither should you. The sprocket fits just fine. Getting the sprocket bolted on was a bit of a pain for me because I do not have any kind of bike stand and I did not have any help. I found it to be easiest by sitting behind the bike so i could reach either side with my hands instead of trying to fit them through the spokes.





The next step in the PDF is to mount the engine but you should already be done that.

The next step is the clutch. Now the pdf clutch looks different but in general its all the same. At first I kinda went through this step pretty quick but when the clutch did not seam right I went back and looked closer at the directions. Be sure and get the big spring on before you slide it through the hole in the engine and then put the little spring on the open cable part after the hole in the engine.



The top one is the clutch and the bottom one is the brake.