Ticking/Pinging noise

I don't know if this is simply the sound of the motor or not, but I hear a pinging sound directly related to the speed of the motor.

Is this because I'm running it too lean?

I'm in Florida - sea level, and everyone thinks the e-clip should be on the ring closest to the end of the needle. So I have it there...

I put in a new plug, and run for a few days, so when the bike cools down tonight, I'll pull it out and take a picture and post, but I welcome your thoughts before then as well.

I am also planning on putting an o-ring inside the carb/intake area, and have already sealed intake/head with RTV red.

Thanks,
Mark

Could be from lean running. The plug should be choclate brown, not light grey or white.

__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

The plug I pulled out after break-in the other day was all black, but the element was a chocolate brown. Is there a picture chart around that I can refer to?

Thanks,
Mark

That doesn't sound too bad....Looky here- Spark Plugs

Keep in mind these are for four stroke engines, a little "oily" appearance is O.K.

__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

What ratio of 2-stroke oil to gasoline are you running for break in ???
Where does the noise come from;
You are going to need a stethoscope , or a friend to identify the source of the noise.
This is dangerous.
Does the noise happen with the clutch pulled in?
Start the engine. Make sure it is making the noise.
Get a large screw driver and listen to the handle end while poking the NON ROTATING source of the noise with the point.


Does the noise happen with the clutch engaged?
Extremely Dangerous!
Get a large screwdriver and a friend who will hold a running bicycle rear wheel up in the air .
Or get a stethoscope and a friend who will hold a running bicycle rear wheel up in the air .

Start your bike make sure it is making the noise.
Have your friend lift and HOLD the rear wheel of a running motorized bicycle with the clutch engaged.
Place the point of the screwdriver or the business end of the stethoscope on the NON rotating place that is making the noise.
Move the probe around to locate the source of the noise.
For example the bottom of the cylinder, the cylinder head, the side of the engine where the magneto is and so on .
Kill the engine.
Have your buddy let it down.
POST your findings.
Ask questions .
Do you have a warranty.

Hi - I'm running around 35:1....I have 3.2 oz containers, and I'm trying to put 1 1/4-1 1/2 in. I want to switch to Synthetic. Should I change the ratio?

Will have to do the other checks at a later date. But I will.
And thanks!


Mark

I live in the desert 80 degrees in the winter.
At 2:00 am 120 degrees, just like Las Vegas but without the glamor just the heat.

I have a bushing engine so I need plenty of oil in my mix.

I use a blend of 64 oz of mobil one t 2 synthetic oil.
With 16 oz of Benol Castor.
I may add 2 oz of Marvel Mystery oil which is an upper lube to bust up the carbon build up.
I use this mix at 12 to 1 for break in.
And now at 16 to 1 for the heat .
Later in the year autumn at 20 to one.
Your mix will be what you can get locally.

Do not use an outboard pre mix oil. They are only good to 212 degrees.
The synthetic is good to about 410 , or less, degrees the Castor about 810 degrees and the marvel mystery oil instantly burns after softening the carbon.

Wow - 16:1 = 8oz/gallon. That seems like a LOT of oil, but then again, the air is not cooling for you at all.

20:1 would be 2 3.2oz containers, which is an easy mix to do.

I am going to buy a case of AMSoil, I think.
Would you recommend any mix with that?

Thanks.
Mark

Buy whatever you like.
Do not use Any oil at 100 to 1.

20 to 1 is a good area to start with.
I need the protection , and ease of use, of of a Castor Synthetic mix like Klotz or Maxima. but I am kinda of cheap so I make my own or equal.

Called AMSOil - they said 50:1 with their oil is perfect for our motors. Only with Synthetic, no additives.

Interesting.