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hi all, I've taken lots of tips on the MB forums and I'll introduce myself properly in a while but here is a couple tips/troubleshooting solutions:

this refers to 66cc HT and related motors
1)center and tighten the rear sprocket while it's on the bike and the chain installed-the center whole on the sprocket may not be perfect and I've found chain tension the best way to make sure it is centered and true

2)we HT owners have a tendency to pull the plug and check to make sure everything is okay-the compression gasket is mostly a one time use and I was getting some blow by of anti-sieze and oil after a couple reinstalls. So, I made a gasket out of the same material I used for the intake manifold ( #1967 Asbestos Free NEA gasket material) from Checker autoparts. I make the center hole small enough so it has to be threaded on. this goes on after I put a copper washer. the plug sandwich is (plug, copper washer, gasket, head). No leakage and compression is great-I made a couple and put in tool kit.

jon

if your rear chain tentioner slips

find a couple bolts and lousen the mount. stick the bolts in the gaps around the bar

tighten the bolt back and it wont move it a bit

Thanks for the tip.
Exhaust refinement: I removed muffler and then removed end of muffler. Looking at the little holes in the plate inside the muffler, I opened them up with about a 3/8" drill bit and then drilled 2 more in an open area next to them. Then I cut off the small pipe so that it would still stick through the plate by about a 1/4". By the way, when I took the muffler apart, the small stinger pipe was half closed with metal shavings. I then trimmed the pipe entrance, using my 3000 rpm electric drill and a carbide burr, to better fit the exhaust port (a dremel would work just as well). This all seemed to make the engine breathe a little better. my next change will probably be to trim a crescent shaped notch in the rear of the piston skirt, so that the intake port opens completely

You can also make a head gasket out of aluminum sheet metal available from tractor supply for $6 (same cost as 1 replacement from ebay). The sheet is large enough to make like 8 gaskets and is the same material and thickness as the original. This way you retain your piston to head clearance from the factory and can make many more gaskets in the future from the same sheet...

I had my exhaust gasket blow out on me at 400 miles, so I bought a small piece of thick sheet copper and made the replacement out of that and annealed it (that makes it soft again so it will conform to the joint) with a pocket torch before installing it

here is a tip, don't go over speed bumps with solid innertubes at 35 MPH . OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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it bent the front rim

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People say that if you play Microsoft CD's backwards, you hear satanic things, but that's nothing, because if you play them forwards, they install Windows.

Oily exhaust and brakes don't mix. I posted a question about this elsewhere in this forum but didn't get a reply. The mufflers on these little 2 cycles are all about the same so I know I'm not the only one to experience oil from the exhaust getting on the rear rim and reducing the friction of the brake pads. Even after break-in when we reduce the oil percentage they're still 2 cycle motors and will have oil in the exhaust. Originally I had considered making an extension to the exhaust stinger on the outlet of my muffler that would run along the chain stay and exit well to the rear to get the exhaust away from the rim but I solved the problem with a simpler solution that only took minutes to do.
I used a copper plumbing fitting correctly refered to as a 45 degree street L. I cut two slits in the unswedged end of the fitting, much like your carburator has on the manifold side, and used a standard stainless steel screw type clamp to secure the fitting to my muffler. Before tightening the clamp I turned the fitting so the exhaust was routed out and away from the rear rim. Before this simple mod I was cleaning my rim and brake pads after every ride with brake-wash (solvent) but now after riding my bike a week the rim is dry and oil free. The cost was nothing because I had the parts laying around but if you buy them the cost should be under $2.00. The attached pictures show the process you'll need to do. I'm sure the old hands here will find this very elementry but to newbies, like me, it might be something that could save them some grief. Plus it's a sure safety issue.
For those unfamiliar with plumbing fittings the first photo is a comparison between a street L and a standard L. One end of a street L is not swedged.
The second pic is of cutting the slit in the unswedged end after measuring the length of your exhaust outlet pipe. Don't make the slit deeper than the pipe is long or you'll have a leak. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel but a hacksaw will work too. The slit ideally should have a slight taper to it. Wider at the open end so it can be compressed to fit the outside diameter of the exhaust pipe of your muffler.
The remaining photos show the parts and the final installation.
Good luck and enjoy your dry brakes.

Attached Thumbnails

         

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