spark plug oil leak

O.K., first of all, too much oil will not help the rings to seat. Running at various throttle and rpm settings will, but you need to seat the rings in the first tank of fuel or so to be done properly.

Now, I have seen a very small amount of oil leaking by the plugs on a few of these, not a big deal, and may stop after some running.

Don't use anything but anti sieze compound on the plug threads and avoid removing the plug from a hot engine.

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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

Could it be that after running it initially with the GNT plug, that the exposed threads in the combustion chamber filled with carbon deposits and won't allow the newer plugs, with possibly longer threads, to seat properly? Just something to check. Just measure the threaded area on each of the plugs to determine if the original GNT plug has shorter threads.

I think you all are talking about combustions reside leaking out around the sparkplug mainly past the threads/plug gasket. I have had this problem in the past and the only way to correct it was to go to a different sparkplug for some reason the sealing gasket starts to leak and over tighting it will result in a stripped sparkplug hole. The plugs gasket seems have a hairline crack in it gasket sealing area. I have had this on both champion and china plugs.
What I did is clean off the threads in the head with either brake clean or carb clean while the head is still on the engine no need to take it off. I then get me a new sparkplug gap it and add a booger of neverseize to it and screw it in there is directions on how much torque to apply with a new gasketed plug which is different than on a ued gasketed plug so check with the manafacturer. I run the plug in by my fingers until it touches the gasket area then apply the torque to just crush the gasket something like 1/4 turn more if it a new plug less if it been used. champion has a site to look at for better info on this. I hate a leaking dirty engine as I'm the one who has to work on it and I'm picky that way becides a clean engine looks better. I hope this SB I wrote will help .
Norman

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I appreciate all the input guys. I'll try another plug & try not to tighten it down so much, as per Norman's post I may have inadvertantly damaged the sealing gasket. I did check the thread length, and it is the same. This site is a great resource.

20:1 for Break in using Valvoline 2 stroke oil or equivalent. After break in ,go with AMSoil 2 stroke synthetic or equivalent mix 30:1. as For the first 50 miles, run 10 mins, let cool 10 mins. As for seepage around the spark plug, this is not a big deal and is common. If it is only a little. It is not a big deal at all. Use only a little anti seize on the threads. That is all. Enjoy the ride..

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visit www.thatsdax.com for more !!

Are you one of those folks who pulls a plug to check if carb mixture is correct? If so, those one time use crush washers will leak if reused.

Yeah, I'm one of those folks. I guess that explains it.

Oh, BTW, if you use anti-seize compound as Dax suggested, you must reduce the torque applied to the spark. THe factory torque setting (as most all other torque settings) are for dry threads, not lubricated threads. Antiseize compound requires anywhere from 25-33% less torque applied to the bolt. For example a 100 ft-lb torque specification becomes 70 ft-lbs with anti-seize.

The lubricating effect of the liquid will not cause a properly torqued nut to loosen but it can cause you to over-tighten a bolt. Not a good thing in a aluminum thread such as the head in our engines.

Hey Guys,

I Just put a NGK B7HS in and it started right up. Good to know it works.


Troy

Helo Troy Welcome to the forum