oh no, stripped intake bolt hole!

i stripped my intake manifold bolt hole and i'm not sure what to do. should i jbweld it or what? there may be a few good threads left down deep that i could work with but most are gone i think. has anyone dealt with this before?

I had the same problem with one of the bolt holes on my rear motor mount. JBWeld worked great for me and I had NO thread left. I had to tap it out again then mixed up some thin JBW and dripped iit into the bolt hole. When I screwed the stud in all the way the JBW was oozing out the bolt hole. It hasn't been a problem since and I check it regularly.
hope that helps

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"I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it." - Thomas Jefferson

that helps alot, thanks man.

Use a good quality stud so it doesn't strip on the other end. Also, don't use the JB weld that sets quicker. You want to use the slow curing stuff because it tolerates heat better.

I've done this in the past and it worked well for me.

I redrilled the motor mount studs and tapped out to 1/4 20 on my last build. I bet you could easily do the same for intake with no issues.

Clearance for the nuts might be an issue so check that out first before you feed the head a drill bit.

Regular JB weld should be fine for that application. There is a High Temp. JB Weld if you think you need it.

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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

There are numerous thread repairs. The best fix is Helicoil, but there is a cheaper competitor. It is carried by Wholesale Tool. You should be able to find them online and find a nearby store. There is a short kit that has the special tap, the inserter tool, and about 10 thread repairs. You supply the proper drill bit. They resemble a spring with a internal vee and an outside one, there is a tang across the bottom. The inserter is screwed in and a drive dog engages the tang to drive it into the threaded hole. After the insert is installed a rod is inserted and the tang snapped off. It can be retrieved with a magnet on the rod or blown out with air. I put one in magnesium for a 1/4 X 20 setscrew. It is MUCH stronger than a magnesium thread. There is also one that has a thicker wall and a nylon insert to hold it in. They can be bought individually and the OD is a common thread. Helicoil is standard stock in most good auto parts stores but they are pricey. They are great for oil drain and sparkplug thread repairs. I once had a 1953 Sunbeam motorcycle. They had a tendancy to blow head gaskets as the alloy head would scallop between studs. I had it and the block planed and made a 1/16" solid copper headgasket and annealed until it was dead soft. I replaced the head studs with auto connecting rod studs in Helicoils. I tightened that sucker till you could almost see the copper ooze. Never another problem. Keith (trackfodder) Williams

I would stay away from the weld glue stuff and move more towards the helicoil repair. The helicoil is the safest and most reliable fix on stripped threads. And it is always replacable if it is stripped again.