nos

Hi im michael im 16 years old and i just purchased an 80cc motor and am looking to put a nos system on it what will work out thanks

also the clutch seems really hard to engage and disengage is this normal?

It seems like I saw this somewhere on the net.

I doubt these engines would live very long on Nitrous.

Jim

hen I bought this Ibike MB it had a bottle made by NOS that catches the or equalizes the pressure of the intake manifold, ibike before and after

I don't know if it does any good or not, It was there and so I left it, look at pic above carb. Check you cable adjustment on clutch and oil cable. Be sure the cable path is as smooth as possible with no sharp turns.

NOS is a waste of time and money....and your engine if you use it.
NOS is for racing, these engines are not.

If you do it anyway, let us know how long it lasted before you blew it up. Oh yes, you will.

__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

agreed with Joe.

These engines are cheaply made and are not designed for that type of thing. You'll get more and constant performance by adding a tuned pipe or doing other mods.

__________________
http://www.jasonhight.net/videos/mot...etowork-sm.wmv

Man I wish I could find this site again!
you guys would get a real laugh.

They're over in Ft.Frauderdale...they offer a mini Nitrous kit for the HT.

It comes with a 60 second, 60 foot warranty. NOT!!!

Depending on how you set it up and how much you know about Nitrous you can figure about 2 hours of fun...Being that the rest of the bike won't handle 10 HP why bother?

Jim

Hey,

I am 20 years old, a mechanical engineering student at University of Arizona and I work at Spookytooth Tucson, some of the guys on here use these bikes for main transportation, not as toys like us, so they are a little conservative.

If you really just want a nitrous system that works, and is cheap, this is what you need.

Go to a bike shop and get a CO2 tire inflator that takes the little non-threaded cartridges, then go to a smoke shop (some place they sell pipes and stuff) get some 8 gram Nitrous cartridges, 24 pack of ISI cream chargers, Whip-its, something of that nature.

Now the inflator you bought is a little too tall for the nitrous canisters which are shorter than the CO2 canisters, what you do is stack about 5 pennies (yes real pennies like the money, change) So that the needle in the discharger will 'crack' the cartridge.

You now have a nitrous discharger with that handle and its trigger. What I did was use a shcrader valve from an old bike tire, and epoxyd that into a length of fuel line (for one of these engines). The little bit of rubber on the valve from the bike tire helps it hold well stay under pressure so don't worry about getting it scraped off.

Then just run the nitrous line back to your carburetor, position it so that it blows into the airbox. If you have one of the black 4 pipe down filter covers, push the tube into one of the downpipes, if you have one of the slatted round covers just ziptie the pipe into position blowing into the carb.

I use the trigger on the actuator to hang the little discharger from a brakeline while getting up to speed, once you are cruising, just pull the trigger and you will feel a surge of power.

IMO the boost is very controllable and my engine has gone through 20 charges with no problems, ZERO, if it is not actually better for the experience, I feel like it runs a bit more freely after feeling the power.

The sad truth about nitrous is, you do only get a burst of power, and in the end you can't use nitrous to cruise so the point of it is a little lost in the fact that these bikes aren't quarter mile machines.

TOTAL COST $40
Inflator-$20
24 pack of chargers- $12
Fuel line-$5
Valve, zipties, and glue-$3

__________________
www.spookytoothcycles.com

Specialized Hardrock Sport
80cc Port matched RAW
36T Sprocket

That sounds like the best way to do it if you are going to do it.

I don't want to be a wet blanket, and my first post probably sounded that way.

If you want to use NOS, or make ANY kind of performance mod, just be aware that you MAY shorten your engines life....is that relavent? Maybe not.

I do remember finding out once, when building a "performance V-Twin" that there is a direct link between the lifespan of an engine and the amount of excitement it generates.

__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

That is the nitrous kit that I use, and yes it is fun to be running WOT downhill and hit the trigger and feel the pull like you see in the movies, but the speedometer on my bike tells the true tail that Nitrous adds about 4mph.
I can add 7-8mph just by pedaling hard. My bike is geared high enough I can pedal at top gear along with WOT.
case in point: the added power from a surge of nitrous is less that what you can provide manually by pedaling. Not to mention the power from pedaling is available for longer and more convenient, plus it is safer.

Either way, the way to go faster, really, and this is pretty much the absolute list:
For the MOST out of your ENGINE safely and easily:
1. Port match and polish intake and exhaust
2. Upgraded Carburetor
3. Expansion Chamber a.k.a. Tuned Pipe
4. Best electrical components you can find (high performance plugwire and plug)
5. Boost Port the cylinder
6. Use Bel-Ray Si-7, or AMSOIL Saber (dirtbike racing 2-stroke synthetic oil) in LOW OCTANE fuel (it detonates more violently at the expense of smoothness)

For the Hardware: The idea is to have the bike set up so that you can achieve a desired speed without trying to force the engine to rev beyond what it is made for.
1. Use a 29inch wheel Cyclocross bike- as lightweight and sturdy as possible, made for racing
2. Use either a highspeed low tooth rear sprocket as low as 25-27 teeth OR a shifter kit from SBP OR a modified scooter CVT bolted to the frame (this one is hard to do but it is AMAZING)
3. Keep your tires at maximum running psi

For the rider:
1. weigh as little as possible.
2. ride in bicycle racing attire, to minimize wind resistance ( this includes a helmet for safety)

There you go. This is how to have a top speed bike, a lot of it also comes from luck of the draw on how your engine performs out of the box due to low manufacturing tolerances, few are F1 grade by sheer luck, most are just useable, some fight you every step of the way just to run.

and it is absolutely true that the more you demand from your engine the lower its life expectancy will be. That is the point of doing everything possible to achieve high speeds with lower RPM through gearing. More speed= more vibration... vibrations make EVERYTHING fall apart, even you, so remember that just like in professional racing after every run with a "high performance" motor, you must go through and check and retighten EVERYTHING, because everything is subjected to so much more force than a daily easy rider.

Have fun! and plan to work for every MPH you try to gain! You WILL burn through as much blood sweat and tears as you do fuel trying to get these to go faster, and lets not forget the investment side of the deal!

$1000 High quality 29inch cyclocross bike
$250 High quality SkyHawk engine from spookytooth
$100 for upgraded carburetor
$250 for Andyinchville's tuned pipe
$200 for SBP shifter kit
$100+ for labor on professional port and polish
$50+ for Electrical and Fuel/Oil accessories
$50+ for streamlined clothing and various expenses (parts etc.)

TOTAL for "superbike" ~ $2000
(...just buy a motorcycle on craigslist...)

__________________
www.spookytoothcycles.com

Specialized Hardrock Sport
80cc Port matched RAW
36T Sprocket

Slipdrive44

I don't want to hijack This thread.
Nitrous or nitromethane mean little to me .
Slipdrive44 I did not know spookytooth was working on a cvt. Quote (a modified scooter CVT bolted to the frame (this one is hard to do but it is AMAZING) Unquote.

A cvt on a bicycle engine is nice.
Start a new thread.
Post pictures.
I will post mine.
I have some nice cvt mods.
both on a Happy time. and a 50 cc 4 stroke.