New to Forum and need clutch help

Copperhead · #1 (**permalink**) 04-05-2009, 08:05 PM

Hi all! I've been lurking here for awhile and finally decided to join the fun. I just got into this hobby after seeing a couple bikes a customer I call on had built. Neat stuff! I,ve ridden motorcycles for years, enjoy driving a '57 Dodge I've restored and generally get a kick out of anything mechanical. Anyway, I finished restoring a '70s vintage 26 inch roadbike and installed an 80 cc kit from Zone 8. The narrow frame presented several clearance problems, but everything worked out fine and it's a blast. I have now installed a Grubee 48 from Gas Bike in a new Huffy cruiser for my wife but I have a problem. The clutch is so stiff she can't pull the lever in and when I do it takes so much effort, I'm afraid the lever will snap. I read a post here about being able to back off the clutch spring preload adjuster through the hole exposed by removing the clutch cable stansion. I tried this and it turned about 1/8 turn then stopped. Not being one to force something unless I know the results, I wanted to get suggestions before going further. Any and all help will be appreciated.

toytime · #2 (**permalink**) 04-05-2009, 08:26 PM

I always coat my cables in grease and then oil before my installs. I also take the side cover with the clutch lever apart and coat that in grease. If you twist as you pull up, the rod comes out of the side cover. If the cable is routed in a nice smooth bend, I find they work OK. There is a member who makes a better side cover for this very reason. I think it's "creative engineering".

Cabinfever1977 · #3 (**permalink**) 04-05-2009, 08:28 PM

the first couple of times i used the clutch it was hard to pull in too,but it easier after i rode it few times.the engine and clutch must be used and broken in.hopefully the clutch lever holds up.make sure your clutch cable is not getting hung up on nothing and lube the cable up.

Large Filipino · #4 (**permalink**) 04-05-2009, 08:35 PM

I did this mod a while back using parts from the hardware store. Does good.
Man it's nostalgic looking at MOOP1 here. That bike is currently in pieces.

YouTube - 70cc bicycle engine clutch mod

No sound. I didn't have that technology at the time.

Cabinfever1977 · #5 (**permalink**) 04-05-2009, 09:09 PM

that bracket and roller for clutch cable is a great idea,i might have to try it sometime.

**fairracing31** · #6 (**permalink**) 04-05-2009, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cabinfever1977

the first couple of times i used the clutch it was hard to pull in too,but it easier after i rode it few times.the engine and clutch mush be used and broken in.hopefully the clutch lever holds up.make sure your clutch cable is not getting hung up on nothing and lube the cable up.

I second that

Large Filipino · #7 (**permalink**) 04-05-2009, 10:03 PM

It's just me but I had my clutch cable break twice at the lever before I took a look at the
stock design. I noticed there's a kink from the cable mount to the clutch arm later designing that
roller. It made a difference in clutch pull by 1/3 and no snapped cables.
Later on I eliminated the cable mount from the engine entirely. I even retained the same cable when I transferred it over to MOOP2
Here's that pic with ads removed. It's the same setup on MOOP2. I used a derailier clamp to keep the cable on the frame. On this pic I used the mount the front derailier cable usually goes when it's just a bike.

industrialphreak · #8 (**permalink**) 04-07-2009, 08:50 PM

i love the simplicity of the desighn of the MOOP2, now i figure it would be awsome to combine it with the awsomeness of a backup boost jet!

Earthman · #9 (**permalink**) 04-12-2009, 02:10 AM

I didn't like the kink in the cable at the clutch arm either when installing my engine. The original setup looked like a bad idea. So, I added a homemade bracket made from brass I got at the hobby shop to hold the end of the cable at the end of the clutch arm. The bracket is held onto the clutch arm with a screw and nut. I deformed the threads at the end of the screw to keep the nut on. I also had to solder a cable stop onto the cable. My current setup eliminates the kink and and lets the clutch cable pull straight on the end of the clutch arm. The clutch cable should last longer. See attached photos. When the current cable does break, I’ll replace it with heavy duty BMX cable, which looks at least 1.5 times the diameter of the stock cable.

**Bikeguy Joe** · #10 (**permalink**) 04-12-2009, 10:15 AM

Maybe this will help...
External adjustment of the primary clutch spring