Just got my engine....

Finfan · #1 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 10:07 AM

...and I was reading through Bikeguy Joes' engine preparation instructions. He says to remove and replace all studs. Is he referring to just the engine mount studs or are there others that I should be worried about? He also mentions greasing the gears. I gather that is in reference to the internal gears within the engine and not the external sprockets, correct? Sorry if these things will be obvious once I get into close inspection but I didn't have time for that last night and these questions will bug me all day!

thatsdax · #2 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 10:32 AM

I can tell you this.. I have over 300 builds, I never replace any studs, nuts or bolts on any of my engines. My Engines..Ever. I do not grease the primary gear or the secondary gear except for 2 or 3 drops of motor oil on the small gear every 1000 miles. That is all. I do add some parts.. I double nut my engine mounting clamps. I have never used nor had the need to use any lock tight. I have thousands and thousands of miles on several of my bikes. Here are a few tips, make sure drive chain is tight for the first mile or two. Then let it loosen up a bit after that. If needed, cut some soda pop can strips and wrap your frame with these alloy strips until the idler clamp is super tight on your rear stay. Take a ball joint fork or large crescent wrench and twist this Idler clamp to make sure it is aligned with your chain run. Once you get your bike running, run 10 mins and let it cool 10 mins. Do this for the first 30-50 miles. Mix 20:1 during break in and do not over speed engine. Use Valvoline 2 stroke oil for break in. After 500 miles and you are finished with break in, switch over to AMSoil interceptor synthetic oil and mix 30:1. Open up the motor and let er rip after break in!!! But never do this going down hills... Not ever.. You can let her rip on flats and up hills.. But never down hills.. Check for fresh air leaks often as this fresh air leak means quick termination of your engine. Fresh air leaks mean certain death for any 2 stroke engine. A quick and certain death.... So..check for them. An easy way to check is this... Once your engine is warm and idling, choke it. If it dies fairly quick, around 5 seconds, then you probably do not have an air leak and are fine.. If it takes more that 5 seconds to die and seems to want to hang on and run,,, then you most likely have an air leak. If you choke it and it does not die at all or runs better choked.. Then yikes !!! You have a major major air leak lean condition.. Find your leak and find it quick and fix it. Check for air leaks using carb cleaner and spray the head, and all intake areas. If you have a leak, it will suck the carb cleaner in and slow the engine idle. You can also spray the side covers since there are crank seals and you do not want fresh air leaks there either.Once found, then fix.. Enjoy the ride.....

Finfan · #3 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 10:56 AM

Thanks Dax! On the question of air leaks, during the few automotive builds I've done I was fond of using head gasket sealer. Would that be useful here or would that create problems with the aluminum block? I was also wondering if there are any torque specs for the head bolts? I like these engines by the way! I don't need a hoist to get them out!

OSCAR383 · #4 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finfan

Thanks Dax! On the question of air leaks, during the few automotive builds I've done I was fond of using head gasket sealer. Would that be useful here or would that create problems with the aluminum block? I was also wondering if there are any torque specs for the head bolts? I like these engines by the way! I don't need a hoist to get them out!

I THINK THE HEAD TORQUE IS 12 FOOT LB. AND SEAL THE INTAKE GASKET ITS THE BEST THING YOULL EVER DO

thatsdax · #5 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 05:22 PM

A thicker fuel resistant gasket material for the intake gasket is a good idea. The Stock ones like to come apart after a while once it gets fuel and oil soaked. The stock intake gasket is an easy fix. 12ft pounds for the larger 8mm head bolts is about right. I must admit, I torque by feel. Just keep the head snug. IF you have no lock washers on the head acorns, you may want to put some on there. Some times the factory uses locks, sometimes not. There are several fun things to do.. Enjoy the ride...

Finfan · #6 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 06:28 PM

One answer leads to more questions!

I'm used to buying pre-made gaskets. What material do I ask for at the auto parts store?

mralaska · #7 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OSCAR383

I THINK THE HEAD TORQUE IS 12 FOOT LB. AND SEAL THE INTAKE GASKET ITS THE BEST THING YOULL EVER DO

If you have 6m studs, such as my 50cc slant head, they may not take that much torque. I torqued mine to 9ft lb and it is working fine. Anything over 10 they never hit bottom.

jf30cp · #8 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 11:18 PM

replace all the mounting studs and the intake and pipe studs...trust me. the metal they use is crap, they will break and thats the last thing u need is breaking one off inside the block. the whole thing will cost like 6 bucks...DO IT!

Venice Motor Bikes · #9 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 11:27 PM

I have never had any problems with the studs! DON'T OVER TORQUE THEM!