How do you port and polish

You should be able to remove your plug with an open end wrench, I have done it on mine. You can replace your stock plug with a champion L78C, I believe it is shorter.

Good save on the cylinder studs, just make sure they are torqued to about 15 ft/lbs.

I don't recommend replacing your engine mounting and intake and exhaust studs with 1/4-20's but I would recommend replacing your stock ones with good quality 6mm ones. That goes for all of the nuts too. If you can't find 6mm studs you can get 6mm bolts and cut the heads off. Just make sure you get the correct length.

thank you guys for your help. The bike is a cheap wal-mart roadmaster, starter bike.

hi Ghost0
why would you not use 1/4-20 studs? the stock rear mounting studs have both broken and I replaced them both with 1/4-20 S.S studs and seems to be fine now!

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I'm obviously not the studly and hairsute Ghost0, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn and I play a lawyer on TV: Whilst a 1/4 is 6.35mm - so it is an upgrade from 6mm, it's pretty easy to find treated or even generic USA 6mm stud material which will do fine.

Also Ghost0 and I have found the nut threads strip out way before the studs go 90% of the time, so just getting new 6mm nuts can be an upgrade. With the jackshaft kit we don't even use studs on the rear mount any more.

Of course this is moot if you have actually pulled the threads from the block, then 1/4-20 makes sense.

Just curious - why SS? Certainly will help with corrosion, but is not stronger than treated HS steel. (But SS is plenty strong enough for the Chengine)

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To reiterate what Pablo said. The 1/4-20 will work if you correctly re-drill and re-tap the hole. All I was saying is that for most people it is much easier to just replace the low quality stock hardware with good hardware and not have to re-drill and re-tap. If the quality of the hardware is good you will not have any failures using the stock sizes.

is it a good idea to port the stock muffler by modifing the opening and not enlarging the tubing? or is a new, larger porter muffler REQUIRED?

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It can't hurt. The port match is horrible.

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So I decided to port and gasket match my intake and exhaust. I was a non believer before, but now i'm sold. The intake was pretty close already, but the exhaust was about 20% blocked. I matched the pipe as best I could and took it out for a test ride. First, this thing runs smoother. Second, it accelerates MUCH faster now to top speed. Top speed is the same, but the time to get there is reduced. Not too shabby.

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66cc Trek 800. 44T, 26" wheels, cut baffle. Top speed 35.0mph.

I have a china motor and I have the clutch cable adjusted so there is no play in it. when the bike is running if I lock the clutch in with the button it still wants to go somewhat, is this normal. If I pull it in by hand all the way the clutch seems to disengage completely. I know my first thought is just tighten it a bit more but I'm worried if I go to much the clutch won't engage completely and it will burn it up. Is this a problem, do I need to adjust the clutch its self or tighten the cable even more.