Down and Dirty cable end

**Norman** · #1 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 03:15 PM

I'm making a simple cable end that anyone of you can make and carry on your bike for emergency road side repairs but you will have to carry tools just for this thing more stuff to loose, Alot of times the cable that breaks will be useless even if you have the end but I thought I'd show you how to and get you all to thinking. If you don't carry an extra cable, just carry the end or for what ever reason. You can skip the threading and drilling for the pinch bolt and silver solder the end on if you want. I don't recommend using regular solder as it will not hold as well if at all. I used a normal 1/4" steel bolt, you can do it that way or use brass for the body. I used a small 6-32" Allen set screw as you can get more torque on it a machine screw might work but then again if you slip tightening it you might stab your hand with the screw driver. Anyway here we go.

**Norman** · #2 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 03:17 PM

**Norman** · #3 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 03:22 PM

Drill the hole take your time do not force the bit. Use a center punch to get the drill to start and lube the bit and don't go like a bat out of **** on the drill these little bits will get mad and hot and break. Got on your safety glasses?

I'm deburring the hole do both sides, it won't take much and will save a little on cussing when trying to stick the cable through the hole

Cut off the head now. I'm cheating by using the dremel cut off wheel as you can cut the bolt with a hacksaw. I'm lazy and like my new toy.

**Norman** · #4 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 03:35 PM

center punch for the hole that will be tapped for the set screw. #36 drill bit and a 6-32 tap for threads. Get it as close to center as you can. This is where a lathe makes it a cake walk but you can do it with out one.

the allen head set screw, a thread pitch guage to find out what threads I have and a #36 drill

I'm showing about how far I drilled into the bolt go easy on this as well. Just as you beak through the other hole is when the bit will try to bind and break go slow and easy clean the chips often and use oil to lube the drill bit. Fun!

**Norman** · #5 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 03:45 PM

Tapping the hole again go slow and easy with a lot of oil to lube and keep the tap from binding. If it breaks here time to start over. All of this can be skipped by silver soldering the little booger on a cable.

Now is the time to cut off the excess bolt. man I love my dremel tool. I'm really liking the cordless part of this tool I was afraid it would not have the torque of a cord powered but it works great.( dremel should be sending me a check for the advertisement for them)

Chasing the threads just to make sure

**Norman** · #6 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 03:56 PM

There it is tighten up on the cable if I was really using this it would be as close to the cables end as possible. wasn't hard was it.

a quickie drawing in case the other forums wants to borrow a picture of how to.

More than one way to hang a bike. Got the hanger kit at harbor freight for $6.00 on sale normal price is $15.00. I hope it doesn't come loose cause I would be very very angry.

3 of my toys I took the big one out for a 50 mile ride yesterday The old lady and I had a nice ride temps in the 60s.
Thats it for the cable end let me know if it works for you.

**CRUISER** · #7 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 04:35 PM

you are really a genius norman. very nice post. going to make a few cable ends just to have them on hand

deacon · #8 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 05:52 PM

Norman,
Im no mechanic as we all know but could you?

Put a short bolt with threads all the way to the head in a vise. Drill the wire hole through the threads just below the bolt head. Then run a nut up to the end to straighten the threads around the hole. Then just insert the wire, put a lock washer on then just run a nut up to lock the cable In place. You could also run a second nut on to lock the first one. It would be much uglier but would seem to be easier for guys like me, if it would work.

Also I wonder about a bicycle spoke. The end of it is already threaded, If i knew what size the threads were, I could take the end off drill a hole in it for the cable and just get a bolt to run in it instead of a spoke. Again I have no idea if that would work or not.

**Norman** · #9 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 06:04 PM

Well maybe. But can you fit that into the clutch lever or a brake lever?
You could use what you are describing down of the clutch arm.
Drilling through threads can be tough to get the drill started but it can be done. Takes a good lick with a center punch so you can start the drill there's ways around that as well. Use the dremel cutoff wheel or metal file to make a small flat spot to center punch so it easier to try to drill through.
Bythe way No drill bits or taps were harmed in the above posts.

Norman

deacon · #10 (**permalink**) 02-10-2008, 06:08 PM

If I did it I promise you there would be broken bits littering the floor. Actually the last one I just wrapped the cable around a small bolt then ran a small flat washer a lock washer and to nuts till I could get to the auto store to buy the brass cable ends. I'm not that mechanical lol

I like the spoke end idea to, wonder what the thread size is for one of those. I have a wheel that is about to go junk city Im going to pull a spoke and take it to home depot next week to see.