a couple mods I would like to try ....

so far I have not found anything on these from my searches:

1. a way to add a front brake to a cruiser bike with a rear coaster brake only. (*new Schwinn beach, 26x2.125)

2. Anybody played with getting a freewheeling rear sprocket? My second bike is a real smooth Giant Comfort (Sonora) and if I could get the motor chain to not turn when not powered it would be a real easy bike to peddle, a true "hybrid" (carbon/carbohydrate). I'm thinking a large diameter one-way needle bearing might do the trick.

thanks, Jeff

Hi Jeff,

1) I suppose a front brake could be added to a cruiser type bike but would require drilling a hole in the fork for an old style center pull or side pull caliper brake....For a more hi tech V brake or cantilever brake you would have to have mounting studs attached to the front forks (probably MIG or TIG welded)....I think there is even a company out there that sells disc brake retrofits for bikes but I can't remember where I saw that....

2) A freewheeling rear sprocket would be great for friction reduction when not using engine power...only problem would be starting the engine if using the HT type engine.....I suppose a recoil starter could be added (mods required)....

I have toyed with the idea of a a bump startable (is that even a word?) freewheel set up using the Top Hat adapter....Basically you would need to run a disc brake hub with the top hat Adapter System....In place of the disc (there would be a aluminum plate (stronger than the flimsy disc) with a hole drilled in it.....the freewheeling sprocket (with a hole drilled into it to match the hole in the aluminum plate) would be mounted to the "brim" of the Top Hat Adapter much like a standard 9 hole sprocket....To start the engine (assuming a bump start for most HT engines) one would simply insert a "pin" to lock the aluminum plate to the freewheeling sprocket set up ....after the engine starts you can remove the "pin" so the freewheel will act like an overrunning clutch when going down hill (thus not having to pull in the clutch when going downhill)...I have not made one like this but I think it may work....only problem is having to not lose the pin!

We need some fabricators out there! ;-)

Andrew

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I had the dealer install a center-pull front brake on my 2005 Raleigh cruiser, with no drilling. Later, when I installed a Rockshox fork with side-pull brake, I moved the center-pull onto a 1970's Schwinn Heavy Duti bike, with no drilling.

re the brake issue - a drum brake would work perfectly - with the advantage that it would not get affected by rain or anything else weather related. I had one on the old bike I had before it got stolen. i'd fit one up again if I could afford it.

Jemma xx

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Wow,

Great, helpful answers all.

I did manage to complete my freewheeling sprocket adaption today with out thinking at all that I would not be able to bump start. I will have to try to add this pin lock idea tomorrow when I (was) to test drive. I will post all if I end up with anything noteworthy. (or is there any other way to start one of these things?, rope start adaptation?)

I will take the advice and buy a drum brake from Ginny. Not having ever done this change out, is the idea that things are standard and I will be able to use the same spokes that are on the wheel now? (new schwinn point beach 26x2.125) I will at least get in the first big workout for my truing stand and spoke wrench! Wish me luck.

Jeff

Hey, I'm very interested in a freewheeling motorized bicycle myself. Could you give me more details about your adaptation (including device and costs) and maybe some pictures? My ultimate goal is a motorized bike that sustains maximum peddling ability. I see myself using both functions equally.

really you could just add a pull-start and you'd be good to go. A rear freewheel plus a pull start would be pretty sweet.

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I have been considering the drum and disc brakes for my upcoming build but I was wondering about the strain on the spokes. Are there heavy duty spokes that can be fit to the wheel to handle the extra stress? I know that coaster brakes seem to work with this ok but I expect that the ability to brake harder will create more strain on the wheels. I was also wondering if it is possible to put either drum or disc brakes on the rear wheel? I haven't owned a bike for years and I have no experience with these at all.

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Hi, just noticed your post. I did nothing additional for the spoke issue and have had no problems. I have read that wild spoke patterns like radial are not suitable for wheels with drum brakes. Standard spokes, well built wheels, 36 spoke 3 cross pattern are quite strong.

Jeff