CARBS...I give up

Kevron99 · #21 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Venice Motor Bikes

Maybe try running 24:1, a NGK B5HS plug, & replace the wire & boot with high quality replacements?

The way magnitos work is, the faster they spin; the more powerful the spark!! (slower, the weaker)
My theory here is that maybe the plug is fouling a little @ idle, & that maybe replacing the ignition parts & running less oil will make the idle stronger?

Also, get rid of the plug-ins & solder & heat shrink the wires!!!

OK How do I replace the wire from the CDI? Should I just pull it off?

**Bikeguy Joe** · #22 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 10:30 AM

It unscrews.

Kevron99 · #23 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevlarr

Wait, when you disengage the clutch at 100% the engine dies? You mean you're letting out the clutch with the throttle wide open at a stop?

Disengage at 100% means pulling or pressing the clutch lever all the way at 100%...at 50% it revs very high at full rpm...then at 100% the engine shuts down.

Venice Motor Bikes · #24 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevron99

Disengage at 100% means pulling or pressing the clutch lever all the way at 100%...at 50% it revs very high at full rpm...then at 100% the engine shuts down.

Are you pedalling to help the bike take off from a dead stop??? (You know you're supposed to pedal a little to start, right?)

impression · #25 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 02:27 PM

the float bowl/carb need to stay level, or bowl will be forever without enough fuel and the air/fuel mix into the engine will always be too lean, learnt this mistake the hard way.

also look into the throttle. make sure the caby end/needle is seated rights as when you try to idle the throttle mights not be going all the way into idle position.

there is a couple of notches on the carby walls where the throttle cable cylinder/pin/needle have to be seated correctly with.

Kevron99 · #26 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Venice Motor Bikes

Are you pedalling to help the bike take off from a dead stop??? (You know you're supposed to pedal a little to start, right?)

No this is not about starting...This is issue is idling...When I am on a stop light I need the bike to idle at full stop. At a dead stop I pulled the clutch lever then in revs at full rpm at 50% and then shuts down at 100%.....what is happening now is every stop light I come across I end up on a dead engine and restart again....I really do not know why the engine goes full rpm at 50% of clutch lever and then dies at 100%...big bummer..

Kevron99 · #27 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bikeguy Joe

It unscrews.

OK I cannot seem to figure what is to unscrew...I tried the one lined in red and it is not moving or unscrewing...I checked the wires itself if it can unscrew, and it is not either (lined in blue)...can you detail how to change the spark plug wires...thanks

impression · #28 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by impression

the float bowl/carb need to stay level, or bowl will be forever without enough fuel and the air/fuel mix into the engine will always be too lean, learnt this mistake the hard way.

also look into the throttle. make sure the caby end/needle is seated rights as when you try to idle the throttle mights not be going all the way into idle position.

there is a couple of notches on the carby walls where the throttle cable cylinder/pin/needle have to be seated correctly with.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevron99

No this is not about starting...This is issue is idling...When I am on a stop light I need the bike to idle at full stop. At a dead stop I pulled the clutch lever then in revs at full rpm at 50% and then shuts down at 100%.....what is happening now is every stop light I come across I end up on a dead engine and restart again....I really do not know why the engine goes full rpm at 50% of clutch lever and then dies at 100%...big bummer..

try my above solutions and get a better wire between your cdi box and spark plug, i go with 7mm coaxial cable which has a solid copper wire core, if still having issues have a look at your connections between the magneto to cdi box, they might not be 'clean'

also check your spark plug, could be a terrible one that doesn't like low rpm, yet also ****s itself @ high rpm. ngk b6hl for my bike, working well so far.

impression · #29 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevron99

OK I cannot seem to figure what is to unscrew...I tried the one lined in red and it is not moving or unscrewing...I checked the wires itself if it can unscrew, and it is not either (lined in blue)...can you detail how to change the spark plug wires...thanks

the blue lined one, the 7mm thick one coming out from the black box ( cdi box) just unscrews by hand ( turn it anti clockwise). it holds on/in by a screw that digs up into the wire itself from the cdi box.

the other end of the 'blue' labeled wire should just uncap from the spark plug. ( the boot = the 'L' shaped plug on the spark plug itself)

marts1 · #30 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 03:13 PM

Had a look at my spark plug wire the other day and it definitly does not unscrew at the black box on mine.So you say that when you pull the clutch lever halfway it starts reving higher which can make sense but you say when you pull it all the way in it stalls..I'd have to see that to believe it.