bogging down

no i dont, but i could get one..if needed.
thanks

If you heat the area around the broken bolt...the aluminum only...and then use the center punch at a right angle to the direction of rotation, tap gently and the broken off piece will slowly come out. Once a few threads are exposed you can grab it with pliers and remove it the rest of the way.

Try to direct your center punch on the easy-out! Do Not heat the aluminum too much, and make sure you direct it away from the easy out/steel stud that remains in the engine. You want the aluminum to expand, not the steel.

You can try this without heat! If you are patient it will work without heat!

Jim

thanks will do....i will get back with you tommorow to see if it worked!

thank again!

Jim, I see where you are going with this and its great to help out a newbie with this kind of problem. This is something I deal with all the time and would like to offer a suggestion if the heat method fails. I will use a Dremel rotary tool and using a cutoff wheel cut a slot into the broken stud, then with a slotted screwdriver the same size as the broken stud and a pair of vice grips firmly clamped on the screwdriver give it a strong tug. 99% of the time this works. just a suggestion if all else fails. MAC

thanks guys, the bolt is to far in to use a dremal..but going to try a torch tommorow..

I never met an E-Z Out I didn't like to break.

__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

If you use the Creative Engineering's method to remove the stud.....just keep in mind it may take awhile, but it will come out.

I used that method to remove an extra large E-Z Out, and it came out...after 4+ hours of tap tap tapping.

__________________
If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

Yeah! It can be real tedious...I've never had much luck with easy out's either.

Great idea Motormac. For this instance the only problem would be the intake surface, if he slipped enough times with the dremel It would have to be remachined to prevent leaks.

Jim

Squire,

I added a few notes to one of your photos that should give you an idea of how to do it.

Start out with the punch at a 45 degree angle relative to the intake surface to get a good indentation. After that alter the angle slightly as you're tapping. Also try holding the punch nearly in-line with the stud and giving it a sharp hit 2-3 times, then continue at an angle again.

It can be time consuming, but it's a happy moment when you see the blasted thing start to move...Once you get it turning, only tap as hard as is required to keep it going.

Good luck!
Jim

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got it!, thanks jim... took a bit but it work it self out..hey your in clearwater..
how much is your clutch adapter? are you willing to trade for some tattoos? lol i work at the good ol atomic tattoos in brandon!