Bicycle Motor Refuses to start

Mopedamauter79 · #21 (**permalink**) 04-11-2008, 11:52 PM

I got a hold of my friend and he told me the following:

- Motor is not flooding

- Not getting any gas at all.

- The spark plug was not even wet.

- It has good compression

- It has good spark

- The carb was rebuilt

- The gas is mixed properly

- Is possible that the carb ports are blocked somewhere

deacon · #22 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 06:10 AM

If you are having to deal with the choke in that manner, you have air leaks. Which would screw up your air/fuel mix. If your air fuel mix is not right it won't run either. Most of the air leaks not all but most are from the manifold tube not being sealed.

Have your mechanic friend check for air leaks. I'm sure he knows how.

**Bikeguy Joe** · #23 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 07:03 AM

Sounds to me like you have a fuel flow problem, maybe an air leak too.

Just start at the fuel line and check for flow, then go to the carb and take off the float bowl and turn on the gas and see if there is flow there. If, after you confirm fuel flow to that point, check the jet (where the needle goes into it) you may have chunk of crud in there.

Keep us posted.

Mopedamauter79 · #24 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 10:15 AM

Here is a quick shot I have of the carb from last year. The carb is fine it's clean. The lever is beside the fuel line. I don't how u don't know what im talking about. The kits all have the same type of carb.

Pablo · #25 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 10:32 AM

Well - the carb may not need to come part - but if the bowl is full (is it?) - then either your jet is too small (or has belly button lint in it) or the needle is too large (happened to me)......

Oh and your clutch spring doesn't go there.

**Norman** · #26 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 11:30 AM

take off the fuel line to the carb, turn on the fuel, you should have a good flow if not your tanks fuel valeve is clogged with tank crap.clean the fuel tank valve and srceen if it has one.
take the carb apart under the float arm is the needle either tke it out and blow air through it or hook up a chunk of fuel line and blow throught the inlet of the carbs fuel line to make sure the flost needle is not plugged.
take off the float chamber and blow through the main jet make sure it is open. the main jet should measure 0.025. your needle should measure around .0700 up at the top close to the clip slots and taper to about 0.065 at the end of the needle.
there is a vent on the carb take off the aircleaner and look close you will see a smalll 1/8" hole that is drilled and makes a 90 degree turn to the float chamber it needs to be open clean with compressed air ot carb cleaner.
I've been over all this before with others last resort send me the carb I'll either make it run or we can put it in low earth orbit. its up to you.
with it all together take the sparkplug off and put a teaspoon of fuel in the cylinder put the plug back on and pedal it.

Check out my post on the classics on carb tear down and reassemby if you still can't get it going pm me and I will get you going no need to post on this anymore. ok!

**CRUISER** · #27 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 11:31 AM

i always have to use the lever (choke) on my bike to get it started. full choke or just a little less or the bicycle engine does not even think about starting

Pablo · #28 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 11:37 AM

I was gonna send him my left over NORMAN (DARTH) MOUL carb - but I noticed he lives in one of those foreign countries!

VENICE BOY · #29 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 12:05 PM

Oh and your clutch spring doesn't go there.[/quote]

Yes it does... there are two clutch springs, this one does go here to keep tension on the clutch lever & cable end.
He's actually missing the bigger one that is a heat shield so the engine doesn't melt the cable housing.

Pablo · #30 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 12:19 PM

Venice - OK yes per the instructions, you are correct. Lots of us don't use that smaller spring. No need. The spring there looks like the larger heat shield one, but I could be wrong.