| | | Motorized Bicycle General Discussion Topics on bicycle engine kits, help articles, repair and modifications for your motorized bicycles | The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley Discussion at Motorized Bicycle Engine Kit Forum in the Motorized Bicycle General Discussion forum. The chain guide or tensioner allows for fine adjustment once set up properly, while half links and 1" of ...  | | 
11-02-2009, 05:08 PM
|  | Godfather of Motorized Bicycles | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ashtabula county, Ohio
Posts: 7,127
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley The chain guide or tensioner allows for fine adjustment once set up properly, while half links and 1" of drop out adjustment can't.
That's the reason for the tensioner, cheap as it may seem.
__________________ If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be. | 
11-02-2009, 05:46 PM
|  | Custom Builder / Dealer | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 1,439
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley Quote:
Originally Posted by bairdco y'know, you could put a chain tensioner on the pedal side, instead. they actually make high quality parts for that... | I've done that too!! it works very well! Look at the 'Paul Frank' bike on my website... | 
11-02-2009, 07:08 PM
|  | Motorized Bicycle Elite Member | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Florida
Posts: 163
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley Yes- tensioner on the pedal side-
THEY CALL IT A "DERAILLEUR"!!!!!!!
This takes care of the tensioning between the two chains at least- And you have a pedaling choice- at generally no more weight than the standard tensioner- which in fact is HEAVIER than a lot of derailleurs. (of course the extra cogs add some weight too)
Like others have said here, you still may have some allignment problems- this can usually be anticipated by simply sighting before installing- is the back sprocket behind the motor sprocket? remember axle spacing is possible too.
And some chain rear dropouts may unluckily not allow the correct motor chain length like Veniceboy has said- but probably will more than not.
Mountain bikes may make good builds, but so many have VERTICLE DROP-OUTS (like criterium racing bikes). Verticle drop-outs leave no margin for chain adjustments.But the best bikes for build, at least as far as chain tensioning, are ones with long horizontal dropouts- some may even have screw adjustment, like Campagnolo road dropouts. | 
11-02-2009, 07:46 PM
|  | Custom Builder / Dealer | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 1,439
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley Quote:
Originally Posted by Nashville Kat Yes- tensioner on the pedal side-
THEY CALL IT A "DERAILLEUR"!!!!!!!
This takes care of the tensioning between the two chains at least- And you have a pedaling choice- at generally no more weight than the standard tensioner- which in fact is HEAVIER than a lot of derailleurs. (of course the extra cogs add some weight too)
Like others have said here, you still may have some allignment problems- this can usually be anticipated by simply sighting before installing- is the back sprocket behind the motor sprocket? remember axle spacing is possible too.
And some chain rear dropouts may unluckily not allow the correct motor chain length like Veniceboy has said- but probably will more than not.
Mountain bikes may make good builds, but so many have VERTICLE DROP-OUTS (like criterium racing bikes). Verticle drop-outs leave no margin for chain adjustments.But the best bikes for build, at least as far as chain tensioning, are ones with long horizontal dropouts- some may even have screw adjustment, like Campagnolo road dropouts. | A derailleur doesn't work well with a coaster brake tho... | 
11-02-2009, 07:54 PM
|  | Custom Builder / Dealer | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 1,439
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley I've found that the best way to get rid of the tensioner is to use a combination of 1/2 links (& or) different size sprockets on the pedaling side chain to get both chains the same tension.
The 1/2 links don't work very well on the engine side!! | 
11-02-2009, 08:02 PM
|  | Motorized Bicycle Elite Member | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Florida
Posts: 163
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley No- a derailleur doesn't work with a coaster brake, so I was talking more about when you may be deciding what bike to build-
Coaster brakes are convenient- but handbrakes work well- especially with a dual brake handle, or things are cluttered otherwise-
I've put an alloy 27 x 1 1/4 rim on my cruiser- which is lighter and really rolls better than the 26 x 1.75. But the best part is that I was able to put a Campagnolo side pull brake on- and it really is a great brake! Much better than the original cantilever.
I thought about a bigger wheel for the back, but am gonna leave the 26" on, just to not have to mess with it. I'd have to get another caliper brake with a fairly long reach too, because the micargi frame support is drilled through at an upward angle.
Anyway it sorta looks cool like a Harley with a bigger skinny wheel on the front. and rolls better too. | 
11-02-2009, 08:59 PM
|  | Motorized Bicycle Elite Member | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: CT, U.S.
Posts: 2,615
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley I kinda cheat on the half link thing. If it needs a half link, I just tip the engine either way. Another shortcut that I certainly wouldn't advise, but use with success.
Not sure I have ever had a single carb bowl that was dead flat and plumb.
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Originally Posted by NEAT TIMES looking In The Sky, May See Dan Flying By!! Ha Ha Ron | I want 2 ride my bicycle | 
11-02-2009, 10:10 PM
|  | Custom Builder / Dealer | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 1,439
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan I kinda cheat on the half link thing. If it needs a half link, I just tip the engine either way. Another shortcut that I certainly wouldn't advise, but use with success.
Not sure I have ever had a single carb bowl that was dead flat and plumb. | I usually mount the engine first with the rear mount square & straight into the seatpost tube. I just get the engine mounted where ever it sits best & then deal with the chain issues (if any?) after that. | 
11-03-2009, 10:00 AM
| | Motorized Bicycle Elite Member | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ny,ny
Posts: 602
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley 2door, Kevlarr, and Venice seem to have experience with both approaches and have a grip. Most of the other guys are just talking through their hat or religious fervor (what else is new).
If you have chosen a good platform it's easy to do without a tensioner and you'll be rewarded with higher reliability and performance. If you went for looks instead of function and ended up with an oddball "problem" bike then you must live with the consequences and the tensioner may be required.
And I can't imagine what these guys who say "you'll have to cut your chain" are talking about. Every install required removing links tensioner or not. Often you wonder if some of the guys have even SEEN a HT let alone installed one. | 
11-03-2009, 12:58 PM
| | Motorized Bicycle Member | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: california
Posts: 27
| | Re: The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley New around here and my first attempt at a motor bike and my solution to the idler sprocket. I will try to post a picture. Here goes. Well, the attachment worked. I used a #41 Diamond brand chain, an 18 tooth idler sprocket with bearing insert, tig welded a small laser cut tab to the bottom of my frame. The weld on tab is slotted to corectly adjust chain tension. Works great and have had absolutely zero problems. | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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