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Discussion at Motorized Bicycle Engine Kit Forum in the Motorized Bicycle General Discussion forum. Thanks for your comments...I for sure have spark now. I suspect it is flooded but the plug doesn't ...
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  #111 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 12:10 AM
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Thanks for your comments...I for sure have spark now. I suspect it is flooded but the plug doesn't look wet. On two strokes if you have fuel, air and spark they should work. I have spark, fuel is in the fuel line and I'm quite sure the carb is assembled correctly although it probably needs adjusting, and air shouldn't be an issue. So it has to be flooded.

I will let it sit overnight and then try starting with no choke, 1/2 choke, then full choke.
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Old 03-10-2008, 12:33 AM
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plug should be wet. where is the needle clip set. It probably should be second grove from the top. Also take a small hammer or screwdriver handle and tap the bowl of the carborator. And yes if you have fuel air and spark you should be firing.

a couple of things you should look at. take the carb loose from the manifold tube and work the throttle. You should be able to see the needle move down the manifold tube. If that is working you might have an air leak in the intake manifold tube. The safest way to stop that is to put some gasket seal around the tube before you slit it in the other part of the tube. I used an o ring but the gasket seal is safer the o ring could b sucked into the engine.

If that is all good, then check your manifold gasket. A leak there could do it as well. If you try everything else take the bolts off and put sealer on the gasket both sides and reset it.

I had an air leak and mine wouldn't start once. I made a new gasket from a cereal box but i put sealer on both sides. Keep us informed. We want to help you
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:36 AM
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I have been thinking and i bet you have an air leak in the intake manifold. That will give your fuel air mixture a fit. Use gasket seal, or an O ring, or even heavy bearing grease around the joint just to see if that is it then look on this site for a more permanent solution.. I have some rubber O rings that fit left over from a previous build. If the grease around the joint solves your problem, I would be happy to mail you one. You can slip it in at the end of your connection. If you don't want to wait, you can buy them the home depot type stores.
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Last edited by deacon : 03-10-2008 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 03-10-2008, 04:26 PM
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Dumb question but I thought the choke was off when the lever was down. However, the following instructions from Powerking say
2. Choke

Have the choke set about halfway for starters. If it still doesn't start, move the choke lever closer to the top (off), and then start moving it lower. You will need to be at a speed of about 10-15km/hr before releasing the clutch.

Other instructions I was reading said the down position was choke on.

All I know after taking off the air filter is that when it is down the hole is blocked letting less air in so doesn't that mean the down position is choke on ?
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Old 03-10-2008, 05:27 PM
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If there is a plate blocking the throat, then the choke is on.....all the kits I've had operate so that when you are choking the engine, the lever is in the "up" position.
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Old 03-10-2008, 05:32 PM
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You may also want to try this since you have spark- remove the plug and turn the engine over several times to clear any excess fuel. Trickle a FEW DROPS of fuel mix in the plug hole and replace the plug.

Give it a try and if it fires and runs for a few seconds that way, then quits, you are starving for fuel.

Check to make sure you have fuel to the carb, and if after you confirm fuel is going to the carb, then I'd check for a manifold leak, either at the carb to manifold junction, or at the gasket where the manifold bolts to the jug- both places are notorious for leaking.

One last thing- on one of my kits, where the carb has the splits/slots (manifold side) the slots were too deep and I cured that by running it on my belt sander until I ground off a 1/4", after that, it sealed fine.
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:08 PM
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Ok..lets review. After tightening the plug wires and replacing the plug cap I do have spark. The clip is on the third ring on the needle. I have taken the carb off the manifold and can see the needle go up and down when I twist the throttle. I have bought sealant and sealed the carb and manifold junctions....I do have splits and slots which I may grind down. I have sprayed starter fluid in carb and cylinder at seperate times with no results. I have taken the float apart just to confirm the carb is getting fuel. I have tapped the float, cussed, chanted, prayed and performed indian dance. I have done everything I can think of except pee on it which is next. I have peddled my ass off trying to start the thing and have yet to hear even a pop out of it.

Anymore thoughts ?
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 07:36 PM
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Just thinking...even if I had a manifold leak would it not have fired when I sprayed starter fluid in cylinder ? This really has me baffled.....
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:20 PM
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Hmmm....

Got good spark. (bullet connections, solid, right?) What is your gap?

Lever up is choke on. You'll need full choke.

Carb assembled correctly? ( The washer goes on top and use the second notch down on the needle)

Wrong: Bad Manual

Right: ttp://motorbicycling.com/attachments/f30/108d1202750711-motorized-bicycle-carburetor-install-rebuild-carbpict023.jpg
http://motorbicycling.com/attachment...arbpict004.jpg
Motorized Bicycle Carburetor install and rebuild

Lastly what you need to do now is take the head off and clean it well. Wipe the top of the piston and the cylinder walls off and allow the gas to evaporate. You probably have fuel preventing a good seal and compression. Put it all together with a new plug gapped at 0.020" and make sure head is properly torqued.

It will start.

Last edited by Pablo : 03-10-2008 at 08:22 PM. Reason: Left out spark plug gap
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:28 PM
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gee whiz this is a bit of a mystery. When you drop the clutch does it make the compression sound or is it just nothing.
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