Any reason these ideas wouldn't work?

I've tried doing searches and can't seem to find any threads on it.

I'm fairly new to the motorbiking world and haven't disassembled a bike in atleast 20 years. I've been researching how often the wheel bearings need to be repacked and figured it would be pretty simple to just install grease zerks into all the bearing hubs. Wheels, cranks and steering.

I work in a large CNC manufacturing company, so slight modifications if needed wouldn't be a problem. A total one off wheel hub would be possible but something to that extent I'm sure I would be charged accordingly for machining labor and such. Not the route I want to go.

With that being said, can anyone say why it wouldn't work? I have several ideas on how to force new grease in flushing the old grease out. I'm sure old thinned grease in the wheels might leak out and create a splattery mess, but if you flushed it say every 2-3 weeks depending on riding habits it should stay fairly congealed.

Secondly, I just ordered a clutch lever and the cam shaft as they are called. The splines on mine are already allowing it to slip. Trying to get the lever off for adjustment I noticed it is basically a cast material and actually started to crumble. I'm going to have both parts made out of steel. Instead of having them attach with splines I thought about doing a square head. Anyone tried to make these and had problems over the long haul?

Sorry for the lengthy post, but my mind is now in race mode and I don't want to jump the gun. Thanks for any input.

a zerk fitting on the hub of any bicycle wheel would be a great idea.

Different kits have different suspect Chinese scrap metal incorporated into the parts.

American steel would be an improvement.

I have a rear wheel with a zerk in it, look's factory to me....I'll get a pic up of it when I have more time.

I'm going to do the clutch for sure. I should have them by the end of the week if their website is correct. The part I am not sure about is if there are any improvements to the flat cam design that could improve the fuctionality of it. It's kind of hard to visualize the actual works of it, just seeing the wear on the edge that makes contact . I've been thinking about a plexiglass cover to put on just to be able to see the actual contact points while disengaging the clutch. I'm sure something better can be done.

The wheels are what have me thinking. Unless the bearings have changed they aren't durable, especially when taking a continuous 25mph road beating. Would constant greasing be enough for them?

I'm thinking too much

I use red wheel bearing grease and when it starts to turn black...I know it's time to clean them and re-pack. I've got over 4,000 miles on my wheel bearings have not had any problems. Most people over tighten there bearings which turns into premature wear.

I'm thinking about installing a grease fitting on my crankset. But as far as the wheels, and fork bearings, if the grease started breaking down and running on a hot day, it could get messy. If it were to get slung onto your tire tread, it could cause loss of traction and disaster. The main thing is to apply only the amount to get the job done and no more.

I am riding a schwinn with a motor that is capable of 34mph on the flat - I havent had any problems with bearings or anything like that in 500 miles. Granted any improvement in lubrication is always good - and it would probably be the saving grace for using a 7 speed hub as transmission - but the key to these bikes is simplicity I think - much like the old early motorbikes.

Its a good idea though

Jemma xx

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I vote "Yes" on the zerk issue.

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HI,

I like the idea of being able to grease the bearings without having to take things apart BUT a few things to think of tho may be:

1) Some higher end wheels use sealed bearings....may have to remove the seals to allow grease to enter the bearings BUT if you force the grease in (grease guns can make a lot of pressure) you risk ruining the seal (no biggie maybe because by then you'll have the zerk in....Of course then you HAVE to grease because the seal is blown ....

2) Some really high end wheels (and actually a lot of good medium quality wheels too) will spin seemingly forever given a slight nudge when the wheel is raised off the ground.....If you place the zerk in the middle or near the middle of the hub the grease will have to fill the hub cavity first BEFORE being forced into the wheel bearings....this will induce a fair amount of drag (relative to before the hub was filled with grease) as the hub will have to spin against the grease along the distance of the axle.....Drag probably won't be a lot in the scheme of things but it will be there.

3) Pumping grease until it come out through the cone areas can get a little messy and hard to clean because the forks or rear wheel stays are so close to the cone area...

4) As mentioned above watch out for the excess grease that may / will come out when greasing.....if the grease falls on the wrong spots it could decrease braking ability...

In all sounds too neat to pass up so I vote "go for it"! ;-)

Andrew

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