Any reason these ideas wouldn't work?

Started on the clutch today. The small machine room had too much on their hands so I grabbed a few files and started shaving. I started with a 10mm(.394) tapered alignment dowel. The top end is pre drilled and tapped, but decided to go with a welded arm. It had roughly .04 taper which I thought would be good for taking out the slop. I only had the new clutch, cam and a pir of calipers, didn't think to bring the cover with me as I was counting on mills and lathes to get it done. Took me about 6-7 hours total using standard flat files, a square file and a 3 sided taper file for the retaining groove. I apologize about the quality of the pics my dig. cam appears to have taken a dump for no reason. Had to use my cell phone.

First 2 are comparisons of the Factory new and my reincarnation:






This pic shows the cam and a new arm I am going to have welded on. I am using the 10mm arm from an old mag base I saved for some reason. Now I know why. I'm actually going to taper the top of the cam so the arm leans slightly for better alignment to the cable:



Last picture is very hard to see. This is the original clutch cam. The shiny part that you can see on the end is actually rounded about .050 on the flat edge. Clutch would stick while disengaged and also would slip causing it not to engage:



All in all it was fairly straight forward, I did have to file out some of the taper once I was able to put it on the bike and the retainer groove was tricky to keep it even with a file. But once I got it to go in freely it fits like a glove. Freely twists but has very little side to side slop. Grabbed it with the channel locks and engaged/disegaged the clutch normally. Tomorrow I'm going to have it welded and drill/slot for the cable. Should be back on the road by 6pm. If something does go wrong, I have a new clutch cam and arm so no harm no foul, but don't think that will be an issue. Think I'll find a steel rod replacement for the clutch actuator rod, ball bearing hopefully should already be steel.

Sorry for the long post and quality of pics. I'll try to borrow another cam tomorrow.

I've ridden cheap and high end hubs if you can't get a grease cert on just drill a hole one quarter of an inch. leave it that way, no need to cover it I never did. This worked for all my years of peddling a good many! years. Now what you do with this hole is but up a piece of automotive fuel tubing to the hole then the other end to the grease gun. Works fine every time. I've put hubs together that had good alloy axles, I can tell rolling a hub by hand , and check end play if its fine. If its not brocken don't fix it! I donnot need any extra work! grease till the old stuff comes out, wipe the extra off the next few times you ride. It just takes a second your supposed to be looking over your bike anyway, unless one wants to regret bad suprises! last it takes a second set of paws to work a manual grease gun, I've managed it by me self both ways one has more cursing though.

For this to work three eights fuel tubing , youl have to hold them still butt everthing together. It really is not has hard as it might sound hope this helps

BikePro.com / Buyer's Guide / WTB Hubsets - Bicycle Parts at discount prices / the Buyer's Guide / Bicycle Parts at their finest! / Professional Bicycle Source / Bike Pro Here is a link to a pair of Hubs that were made by a company called Wilderness Trail Bikes. Other than Phill Wood hubs these are probably the best hubs ever produced and unfortunatly no longer available. WTB liscensed their Grease Guard system to Suntour which made hubs using this system for several years. There are two grease fittings in each hub so each bearing gets it own. The hubs use sealed cartridge bearings and there two special rubber seals inside the hub that keeps the cener of the hub seald and forces the greas to flush the old grease out of the outer seal. You just pump grease into each side until you see fresh grease leaving the outer seal and wipe off the excess. The original WTB hubs are very collectiable amoungst the vintage Mountian bike folks and bring pretty high prices still today when the become available bu[t the Suntour hubs can be had at quite reasonable prices.

ocscully