44 to 36 tooth sprocket swap

**CRUISER** · #11 (**permalink**) 02-26-2008, 12:22 PM

no it was a couple responses. i put move instead of copy to the post i wanted in the classic area. it was only like 4 posts i lost. one was mine and one andy's not sure if any others. my bad

the light is unbelievably bright. i am going to have to make sure it is adjusted right so i do not blind oncoming traffic. you did a good job vader. i have come to the light side

NickDK · #12 (**permalink**) 08-31-2008, 01:33 AM

I just bought a 80 cc 2-stroke and on the instructions it says to cut BOTH rubber/fiber washers and to put BOTH on the inside of the wheel, over the hub. This way the sprocket is tight against the spokes (metal to metal). Is this right? I see you put one of those fiber washers between the spokes and the sprocket...The way I have it with both washers over the hub on the inside is working great -- over 30 miles so far and the chain has never slipped off and the sprocket is very true.

MrLarkins · #13 (**permalink**) 08-31-2008, 08:55 AM

what's the increase in top end speed?

Saddletramp1200 · #14 (**permalink**) 08-31-2008, 11:31 AM

Nick, that don't sound right at all! The rubber keeps the sprocket tight against the spokes. Metal to metal is not good! Those spokes are not that strong! Maybe Andyinchville will be kind enough to help with this one. He is one of our sprocket experts.

TwoWalks · #15 (**permalink**) 08-31-2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickDK

I just bought a 80 cc 2-stroke and on the instructions it says to cut BOTH rubber/fiber washers and to put BOTH on the inside of the wheel, over the hub. This way the sprocket is tight against the spokes (metal to metal). Is this right? I see you put one of those fiber washers between the spokes and the sprocket...The way I have it with both washers over the hub on the inside is working great -- over 30 miles so far and the chain has never slipped off and the sprocket is very true.

When reading install instructions I have seen both, cut and do not cut 2nd rubber washers. I decided the do not cut sounded correct. What I have not been able to understand is the wording "Tighten Bolts", how tight is that? 12 ft lbs - 30 ft lbs or ???? - think I am getting anal in my old age.

**Norman** · #16 (**permalink**) 08-31-2008, 01:26 PM

there isn't really a proper torque for them what I go by using a 1/4 drive ratchet when it hard to tighten I stop I also use an electric screw driver to do most of the work and the ratchet for the truing.
The spokes should be sandwiched, fiber discs on both inside the wheel against the spokes and a fiber disc on the out side against the spokes. it will keep the spokes happy. if you do it different it may work for a while but you will be sorry as it will eat the spokes in the long run. There is a bad miss print on some instructions and some very bad translations on some what we tell you here is to make your ride a success and not a failure at least I ain't going to lie to ya.
Norman

TwoWalks · #17 (**permalink**) 09-01-2008, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norman

there isn't really a proper torque for them what I go by using a 1/4 drive ratchet when it hard to tighten I stop I also use an electric screw driver to do most of the work and the ratchet for the truing.
The spokes should be sandwiched, fiber discs on both inside the wheel against the spokes and a fiber disc on the out side against the spokes. it will keep the spokes happy. if you do it different it may work for a while but you will be sorry as it will eat the spokes in the long run. There is a bad miss print on some instructions and some very bad translations on some what we tell you here is to make your ride a success and not a failure at least I ain't going to lie to ya.
Norman

Norman, thanks for this information as well as a lot of other good information you have placed on this site. The bolt torque really helps

Andyinchville1 · #18 (**permalink**) 09-02-2008, 01:17 AM

HI All,

Concerning the use of the rubber spacers on the 9 hole mounts , I have to agree with Norman....Best to use the rubber spacers to sandwich the spokes.....rather than steel on steel as suggested.

In theory, one may be able to get away with steel on steel for awhile IF there is no movement between the two pieces (in this case the steel of the 9 hole mount or sprocket and the spokes themselves)....which could result in a cutting action between the 2 pieces and result in damaged parts / possible accidents.

The hub obviously has the spokes passing through them which is steel on steel or steel on aluminum depending on hub material, BUT since there is no real relative motion between the parts that is why they last....

Lastly, since the rubber "conforms" to engulf the spokes, they allow for more surface area to transmit the engine torque to the spokes rather than just the "tops and backs" where the metal touches the actual spokes should the rubber parts be omitted.

That's my take on the rubber or no rubber situation.

Hope this helps.

Andrew