what historical figure

You could get a sprocket that just has one small hole in the middle, and sandwich it between the cone and locknut. Might have to add a space on the other side to keep it even. Not sure how well that would hold up under power though.

Get a front wheel with a disc brake mount and get one of the custom drilled sprockets to fit?

Get a front wheel with a disc brake mount and get one of the custom drilled sprockets to fit?

If i was going to go to all that trouble I would just get one of our rear sprockets and mount it on the front. I'm still kicking around ideas now.

by the way a small child bike chain ring will fit a cone just fine. I might be alble to take out the coaster brake mechanize and secure a chain ring to the wheel with a cone ring. but wouldn't it free wheel. Looks like i would need to either weld to the small sprocket there or remove that sprocket and replace it with the chainring. Oh well more things to think about.

__________________
visit my blog for Riding in the hood,... The home brew bike journal....http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/ The deacon's fiction

Deacon, I was thinking about your question regarding a workable sprocket on the front.

If you found a rear rim the size you wanted with the 5 (or more) gear cluster that's shifted with the derailer..........and could get the gears dismounted from the axle. (takes some special tools) Then find a sprocket diameter/circumfrence to pair up to the engine
sprocket (to get the drive ratio you need for the specific engine you're using)
then it could be a possible solution. Just a matter of adapting a setup. You'll only be using one sprocket (instead of a cluster of 5 or more) thus the axle won't be as wide and give a better fit into the front forks. The rim may be from a mountain bike to get the size of the front tire to match the rear. The sprocket may be from the front of a salvage one speed bike which uses an ashtabula pedal crank (one piece). That sprocket may have to be drilled out
or whatever to fit up to the end of the hub that the cluster came off. The hub itself may have to be modified, cut down etc..........but it's worth looking into.

I'm sure you could find some of these old rear rims laying around to experiment with. It would be interesting if you were able to have that sprocket free wheel just the same as if it were in it's original install. Thus if you throttled back or killed the engine it would still coast. With a centrifugal
clutch rolling downhill the wheel could coast with the engine still running if
the bike began to travel faster than the engine would propel it. Just a thought.

I'm thinking that it would be easier to take a rear coaster wheel and cut the center out of the chain ring to mate up to the already there freewheel sprocket and have it welded on. I am assuming that it wouldn't be a problem to get the rear coaster wheel to fit the front fork. I never tried to put one on, but I did read somewhere that you could put a rear coaster wheel on and somehow use a cable to activate the coaster brake how I don't remember. If that is the case them the rear wheel should mate up. The trick might be to get a sprocket for the motor.

__________________
visit my blog for Riding in the hood,... The home brew bike journal....http://frictiondrivebicycles.blogspot.com/ The deacon's fiction

Hmmmmmm, About the only bicycle I've ever seen that had cable activated drum brakes was a Japanese Toyo Kaga (I think Kaga is right) It had these 5 inch drums front and rear that were cable activated. The rear wheelo of one of
those would be the set for you I'd bet. I've tried searching Google just now but didn't have any luck. (Toyo Kaga bicycles and Toya Kaga and bicycles)

But if you could get one and adapt the sprocket size you needed......you'd be in business.

I've only seen one of these bicycles and the young lad who had it claimed his Uncle brought it back from Japan when he returned from the service. The bike was of the 1980's vintage and except for the brake system it was about like any other bike.