somebody build me

deacon · #11 (**permalink**) 05-05-2008, 07:32 PM

Ah I have built several bikes that way yes. I am talking about converting the china gasoline bike to friction drive. If I can do it easily and inexpensively it will solve my intermittent chain problems.

I love my electric bike but the range just isn't there for me.

by the way on most brush type electric bikes I just change the wiring to the motor to reverse the direction of the engine.

VENICE BOY · #12 (**permalink**) 05-05-2008, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jezusjonz

Hey did you ever do this?? just curious.

I didn't get around to it... maybe tomorrow.

deacon · #13 (**permalink**) 05-05-2008, 11:55 PM

cool let me know im really curious. If I do it first I'll let you know but it will be a while before i get it ready

**Bikeguy Joe** · #14 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 05:27 AM

deacon- I'm a little puzzled as to why you have so many chain problems. How tight do you have the chain? Have you tried replacing the nuts and bolts on the tensioner with good hardware and that includes using the cupped washers behind the two tensioner pieces?

In well over a thousand miles I have only had "annoying noise" as a problem with my tensioner and that was mostly due to not being able to perfectly center the sprocket.

If we could get to the bottom of your tensioner problems I think you'd be a lot happier with your motorized bicycle overall.

deacon · #15 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 06:55 AM

Okay I don't use the tensioner. All of them have jammed at the roller. One of them ended up in the spokes.

Now the chain binds when I back the bike up even with the clutch in. It will pop and jump off the sprocket. It goes right back on no sweat.

I have never liked this chain drive system. The darn sprocket on the rear wheel reminds me of a tumor. I think the frame somehow causes the wheel to get twisted in the mount as it runs. Im going to take a good look today.

I might have to switch everything over to the huffy I had planned to use for a spare. I'm going to give that wheel and frame one more chance. I never had this problem with the sissy schwinn, that's why I think it might be the frame.

I really would prefer friction drive to be honest. I might just sell this thing for parts on ebay and buy your engine if you still have it lol...

I have a controller and throttle coming for my electric setup. If that gets me a little more range from the battery trailer, I might just dump gas all together. I just went to this rig for the range.

VENICE BOY · #16 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 08:24 AM

Deacon, does your rear sprocket "wobble" at all?

I always make a effort to make my sprockets as perfect as possible, & I have only ever had a chain come off once. (on my very first bike, the first time I started it!)

We would hate to see you go over to the "dark side" forever... (electric).

deacon · #17 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 12:48 PM

Okay I reset the motor since I had done that earlier as part of the bike check up a month ago. I tightened the wheel's axle it was loose, I changed out the knobby tire that was split, I didn't know. At this time I can get about a block before it throws the chain. I tightened and loosened the chain, I added more spacers and removed all the spacers one at a time. I got a less than a block. The only thing I didn't do is to change out the rear wheel. It is possible that the wheel got bent from running it with a loose axle. I'm going to do that tomorrow. I have decided to go to the full 24inch wheel. If I had a 24 I would go there instead.

The bike will more difficult to mount and dismount but it will still be pedal friendly so thats a good thing. I'm going to have to redo the bike chain again I think. It is a pain in the butt but I added links so that I could get the motor chain really tight. That didn't help. I REFUSE to put the tension back on the motor side. If changing out the wheel doesn't do it, someone else will own the engine next week.

I have some serious e bike parts coming in this week so i have to work on that as well.

I have given up on a friction drive. I decided the compression on the engine is too great to start with a friction drive. I would need a pull start which is just more money down the proverbial rat hole. I think Gasoline and deacons don't mix.

toytime · #18 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 02:11 PM

Earlier I was trying to explain what I built a couple of years ago. When you look at this pic, try to imagine it mounted to the rear as you would mount a rear rack or carrier, I'm not sure of the proper name. If you were to turn this upside down, the bike would move forward as it turned your bike wheel.
All it takes is a couple of hours work, a drill, two metal pipes or tubes that mount to the wheel nuts and a hacksaw. The air pressure can be adjusted to get the right pressure so that the drive wheel turns your bike wheel without EVER spinning in place. Rubber on rubber is by far the best "friction drive" you will ever come across.

deacon · #19 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 03:32 PM

damn that looks heavy. lol... Cool but heavy

I switched out the wheels and sure enough that was the problem. of course now I have a bike that is twice as tall and moves way too fast. I have a couple of new 20" coaster wheels. I think I might ride this for a week if it doesn't get any better feeling I'll switch wheels again.

Still it does move and there is no grinding sound like before. I also went about five blocks and the chain stayed on. made a heck of a racket but it stayed on. I think the other one in addition to working loose again also had the coaster brake dragging. That was the lurching I felt.

I am using the tensioner temp on the bike side. that will go when I get around to shortening the pedal chain. I would still rather have a friction drive. next kit I get will be friction I guarantee it.

I still have to work on the ebike when I get the new parts.

deacon · #20 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 03:34 PM

Thanks for all the help guys, I probably never would have gotten motivated to fix switch that wheel without you guys kicking me in the butt.