Deacon's Bike

deacon · #61 (**permalink**) 04-19-2008, 06:52 AM

I have discovered that my diy electric bikes lack the guts that I have come to expect from a motorized bike. I think I need to reassess this project. but I did make it work.

I think now that if i am going to build a bike for a senior, it has to be on a light weight frame. It will have to be electric for dependability and ease of maintaining it. I now think the hub motor might be best. Stay away from gears for sure. I might take a look at some step through light weight frames again with a twenty inch coaster wheel on the rear and a 26 inch hub motor wheel on the front. I'm going to have to take a serious look at those motors.

Large wheel in the front with the hub motor will give it max speed and range while the twenty inch rear wheel will give the bike the easy mount feature that it would need for less flexible people. LIKE ME

deacon · #62 (**permalink**) 04-19-2008, 07:25 AM

I have also found that in kids bikes there are different sized frames evidently. I had one twenty inch crank set that went into a 26 inch from no problem but I had a 16 inch that was too small over all. Not the length but the bearing were too small to fit in the bigger bike. I made it work but it wasn't right. However I have one small crank set that went in just fine. It will need the small crank set because of the height of the pedals. So it's 20" not 16" that will work. That being the case the clown bike will work after all. I just have to find a twenty inch for the crank set.

I would like to keep the seat low so that the rider could easily reach the ground with his or her feet to give that feeling of control I lack on tall bikes. My gas bike is the ideal combination. If I can replicate it on a hub motor bike it would be ideal.

I was also thinking a hub motor would be ideal for a schwinn stingray.

deacon · #63 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 03:52 PM

I have decided to revive the clown bike. I'm not looking for a rack friction drive for the rear. I have had so much trouble with the chain drive that I hope to find an alternative. I do want the rack on the rear not the front. I just feel I would have more control of the bike. I think I can make the rack work on the twenty inch wheel.

Im going to have to keep an eye on the tires even if I do go friction drive. In my reading it seems that the knobby tires I have been running do not perform well with friction drive.

Big Joe · #64 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 04:12 PM

Deacon
I think I have a 20" junk bike with a crankset. If you are interested i will check it out and take it out if I can. Let me know

deacon · #65 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 04:17 PM

Joe I can buy one here cheaper than you can ship it. the last one I saw at a yard sale was five bucks. Then i get a rear wheel and a front one too for a trailer. I have one front one here now to match up. But I appreciate the offer.

deacon · #66 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 05:52 PM

Does anyone know of a china engine kit for rear mount friction drive. I guess there is no reason you couldn't mount the kit engine with a friction drive. Now that would be something to see lol.

but seriously let me know if you have any info on one.

deacon · #67 (**permalink**) 04-21-2008, 10:52 AM

I gave it another thought and pulled the clown bike from the throwaway pile of scrap metal. I put the new wheel on but with an old smooth tire. Then i reattached the 300 watt electric motor with the friction drive. I used a different kind of mount though. One that supports the motor from the off side as well as the engine side. I also pulled it down on the tire with the mount not springs. Just as soon as I get a good dry day, (tomorrow they say) I'm going to give it a try.

Even if this works I'm going to need a cover for the knurly drive wheel. It is too small and too rough .lol. I like a much larger wheel but for the trial I'm going to go stock this time. But that wheel will absolutely grind a tire to dust. Still I need to know what is what.

deacon · #68 (**permalink**) 04-21-2008, 11:12 AM

Ps joe if this works they are selling motor on ebay with build in controllers I might just pick up one to try out as a replacement for my old brush type motor. My question I'm trying to answer is, "Will a three hundred watt motor with friction drive actually be enough to climb hills with minimal assist." I get out of breath (chronic heart disease) too easily for serious help.

deacon · #69 (**permalink**) 04-22-2008, 10:06 AM

The clown bike lives if not so healthy

I changed to a smoother tire. I switched back to the drive wheel that looks like a round file, and I pulled the big batteries on a trailer and it all combined to make the clown bike hum. I climbed my test hill pretty easily and might have been able to do it more easily if I had let the bike pull more. I sort of over pedaled it with the assist to assist me rather than the other way. Regardless it worked pretty darn well...

I am giving some thought to picking up a low voltage light dimmer and trying it as a throttle and on off switch. It it doesn't work I will just return it to the store, no harm no foul. Those things cost almost as much as the motor did.

I have a back up bike again. I am going to build an ammunition type caisson/trailer for the batteries though. Also it needs that 20" crank set otherwise clown bike lives

It isn't going to set any speed records but who cares. I like slow bikes.

deacon · #70 (**permalink**) 04-22-2008, 12:13 PM

The number one lesson I learned is knobby tires and friction drive do not match up well. I also think I learned that it is better to pull your weight (on a trailer) than to stick it on top of a bike. The bike is a lot more stable. Certain modification are necessary for the people I'm designing this for.

I still have to make some battery decisions but I think I'm getting there. I'm thinking i might put that skinny 3speed front wheel back on the bike. That would really make it clownish I think.