lights using the white wire that really work

Nitro

I know what your after!!! Like me in NY. Your honor, the flat foot heard the motor runnin because I was powering my lights with the motor. The clutch wasn't engaged, I was on my way to a friends parking lot to try the bike out (private property).

Go to radioshack and buy LEDS with resistors pre wired. Costs 5-10 bucks

Interesting. Would an LED setup for less than 3 volts only take from the magneto the amount of volts needed or will it overload the circuit with 3 volts?
I'm not smart when it comes to electronics,btw.

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You have found the fountain of youth. Ride and forever stay young.

If you put 6v to a circuit set up for 3v you need to protect the circuit or you will blow it up. The easiest way would be to hook two 3v circuits in series unless they draw too much or unequal current. However, I think you would need to rectify the voltage coming off the magneto to power LED lights so you could drop the voltage at the same time if needed. It seems like there should be some regulator/rectifier available for short money on the market that would do the trick.

I am rusty at electronic stuff but I did find a scope in my shop. Now if I could find the leads and remember how to work that thing I need to see exactly what that white wire has to offer because I keep hearing different things.

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Cheers,
Paul

50cc Slant Head mounted on a $5 Huffy mtn bike
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfN5nW7JIjw

I'm so glad someone started a thread on this, and cheers to Norman for creating his solution and making it available.

I'm going to do some bulb research, and I respect Norman's business decision to keep it quiet.

I'll post what I find, because I want to install a Halogen or Xenon bulb in a pre-made housing that provides some amount of side-lighting. I find a small amount of side-lighting to be crucial when it's really dark.

The super cheap Bell lights you can buy at Walmart cast a really good beam, including some side lighting, and require 4x1.5 volt AA's, so they might be 6v compatible already. Granted they look like the cheap plastic they are, and I've already had an old one fall off and break into pieces, but I'll be damned if they don't cast a bright beam. They just eat batteries way too fast. White wire! White wire!

LED's bite for front lighting, but it's a great idea to use the white wire to also power a red LED brake light. Anyone have specs on a radioshack LED (or multiple LED's) that worked good for a brake light powered off the white wire?

Just my $0.02,
Mark

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“The trouble ain't that there is too many fools, but that the lightning ain't distributed right.” - Mark Twain

Good ideas and right conclusions guy's

Had it on my bike for over 2 wks and still going strong!

Here's what I did, I took a broken Bel Light, like a previous post and gutted the board with the 2 leds on it. Figured what side was - and which + by the old battery configuration (in the housing).

put led board minus the light bulb and switch back in housing, soldered white wire to positive soldered another wire to other side (to run power to the tail light).

The Bel tail light was gutted of it's leds ( to many!) I modified it to hold 1 single LED out of a Newer Mercedes tail light. You could probably un solder one of the LEDS from the original light circut and modify the lamp (put it in the center).

The resistors in the headlight led circut must be good enough to steady the current to the tail light, it works great.

I ran power from the headlight to the + side of the LED in the Tail Lamp and the - Side of the tail light LED to ground on the bike!

Let me know what you think of these instructions!!!

Bike starts and runs fine w/ constant power to lamps.

Dear Board

For what it's worth, I'm not getting down on Norm one bit. He's regarded by me (as many others are here) as a highly intellegent individual.

Infact his light probably out performs mine.

Norm is into Aviation and I learned alot by reading his and other member's posts. My personal necessity in having a lite to evade NYS DMV law promted me to take on the challange myself.

If we were to all quit posting ideas - we may as well fly the WHITE Flag going by the traffic NAZI's

Thanks to all my BROTHER'S especially Norm for at least letting me know it was possible. The Magneto by the way is 3-6 v AC not DC!

Like minds think alike: I just finished rigging up power to an old Bell light and it works great! Plus you get some side-lighting from the diffuse beam it casts. I have a small battery powered LED rear light, but it looks like the batteries are going to last a long, long time. So for now I'm just powering the Bell front light, which I made removable by putting alligator clips on the end of it's power cable and leaving a small looped cable tie on the frame that I can easily feed the alligator clips through.

I had to buy replacement bulbs and after trying a few, I found the 4 Cell Maglite Kyrpton bulbs to work perfect. I did set my spark plug gap to .024 and I upped the iddle a tiny bit. When I was testing bulbs, sometimes just touching wires to the end of a bulb would cause the engine to quit. I found I needed better connections and I ran a line straight from the white wire and another from the frame instead of testing using the black wire which runs all the way up to the kill switch and back (adding resistance along the way).

FREE LIGHT RULES!

Mark

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“The trouble ain't that there is too many fools, but that the lightning ain't distributed right.” - Mark Twain

hey i need a light how much?

I'll sell off the bulbs and remaining lights but I'm quitting the light bussiness if anyone is interested.
Norman

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norms-iron-works.tripod.com

Since you quit, could you give up the bulb secret?