For what its worth.Serial# 001

Here's what I came up with.Nothing new here except maybe the front motor mount.Anyway I hope the kick I get out putting down the road sticks around awhile.Note Norman's small light which I have yet to wire up.Waiting for a switch.
Great "non fascist" forum.Thanks to all,Ron
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Nice! More details on the front mount please.

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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

Hey I got then new motor too, The Difference with the mount is the spacer thats on the old ones is now built into the block.

HI,

Which motor are you running that has the front motor mount that is an integral part of the motor?....I've installed motors in very tight situations where the removable front engine block had to be chopped (the flat back side) so the motor would fit....I guess one could grind out the front mount in those situations if the front part is solid....Hmmm ....maybe it's not such a bad thing after all....
Andrew

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Sprockets now available in 9 anodized colors!

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Well Mines a 80cc(65cc) From boygofast on ebay. He said it was the newer more better motors that has a better crank and head.

On the front motor mount I took a hand drill mounted drum sander and enlarged
the mount to a slightly oversize fit to my tube.This went outside the original threaded mounting holes.Used bondo to mold fit to tube.I used packing tape around tube as a mold release.I placed a piece of inner tube material under tape as that is what would eventually be between the two.Made for a good fit.
Then I drilled 1/4" holes on both sides of the mount as far back as possible.
A little less on the left side because the ignition wires get in the way.These holes intersect and go past factory mounting holes at a right angle.Took 2 pieces of 1/4" steel rod and bent a 90*leg on both. With bent rods in place marked where they intersect original holes.Notched them at this point and used set screws through factory holes to lock them in.With JB weld to boot.Threaded ends of rods before installing and made (opposing plate?) out of 1/8"steel bar stock.
I should say this comes dangerously close to "compromising the integrity" of the mount.I like to throw that phrase out now and then as I seem like I know something until I open my mouth again.I have cranked the mounting bolts very tight (while cringing) with no problem.Now I just have to worry about longterm fatigue.
Bottom line: I'm not sure this is any significant improvement but it sure as **** looks a lot better than a flat plate clamped to a round tube.I couldn't hack that. Now all I need is a rear rack heavy duty enough to haul a 30 pack of malt beverage as that is where most of my driving miles come from.Ron

I realy like your bike and the light. You will see what you are going to hit in the dark long before you hit it, if you don't like what you are seeing you can turn it off, If you need or want a taillight PM me I can get you on track for one.
Thanks again
Norman

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motor assisted bicycle engine headlights that work off of your white power wire. check it out

Andrew
If your talking to me,This motor came from Boygofast.Got it a couple weeks ago
No doubt obsolete.Runs great except a chirping noise I hear at speed when I let off the throttle(down hill)This may be normal,what do I know.If not I suspect chain noise.The chain had a very poor fit to the drive sprocket,which required a lot grinding and filing.

Thanks Ran.
Andrew

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Sprockets now available in 9 anodized colors!

http://www.myspace.com/kingssalesandservice
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I found it a lot easier on the whole works if I pulled in the clutch while "coasting" down hill or to a stop.

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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.