Reed valve on the cheap

The reed in the picture I removed from a chainsaw that is probably as old as I am. I found it in the trash. I just knew what I was looking for is all. I made the body of metal that is holding this piece out of another piece of scrap that I found in the trash. The same process could be repeated many different ways. This was just what I had.

I want to try the Walbro carb that belongs on the reed soon. there will be no need for the intake manifold with that. I do agree with your suggestion. I may refine it into a product eventually. I also kind of dig making knowledge of my experience available so anybody with the motivation can benefit. This bike "Hobby"/"obsession" is just so d@*n fun! Check out the link below. If I find some plastic blanks it might be game over. That is my little helper there

YouTube - shopbot

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Daniel,

you see the little metal "trap door" that is the one way only for the fuel/air coming from the carburetor. The other is a piece of discarded metal that I used for the plates. Hope this helps

This might help you with the rough idle. Just use the correct size drill bit...............


Stock carb mod

__________________
"No such thing as a stupid question, just a stupid answer"

48cc Grubee Starfire Round Head......

Nice

Seems that the only way is to get that valve in some store, i think is hard to find..

Stores of chainsaws?

Thanks for the tip, I had already done that to the carb about a year ago and it worked great.

Well I know we live in different places and it may be hard for you to find there. Look on Ebay I know you will find it there.

Another modification that should complement the reed valve is to trim the piston skirt on the intake side. The reed valve allows you to have the intake port open longer while still restricting backflow into the carburetor. You can get the high rpm power boost provided by trimming the skrt while still retaining the midrange power.

Yes I agree. I had already trimmed it up when i got the motor. The things that are going to have improvement now are to do a proper port job on the transfer ports as well as adding boost ports, horizontal tapering of the exhaust port and properly beveling the piston crown. This will all probably lead to R I P for my tired little engine but its good practice for the next one!

Opening that "port", will raise the consumptions, right?

Certainly i'm wrong, but i take the exhaust off, and see inside the piston, and the exhaust port is almost covered by piston (when this is fully in top).

Hope that you understand, but i put a picture if you didn't