Reed valve on the cheap

In those 3 pieces of metal is the reed valve. What this does is allow the gas/air mixture into the cylinder without letting gas/air mixture back into the intake. This is what improves the performance.

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The idea is not about changing the distance between the port and carb for performance. I had to use the metal to hold the component going in between the port and carb. It's the main focus of the modification. It's the reed valve which is like a tiny one way trap door. Entrance only, no exit. That way any fuel drawn into the motor stays inside instead of being blown back out the intake on the piston down stroke. I know where you're coming from though, it's information overload. Keep thinking hard and you'll get it.

Excelente explanation Nunya and shark, now i got it

That "reed valve" is easy to get? Any change is comsumptions? (economy) better or worse?

Relation performance/economy, increased?

thanks guys

Easy to get yes, in my opinion. The consumption depends on how you ride, so far, it hasn't been worse for me.

Part of the theory behind this device is that it lengthens the overall lifespan of the engine. It helps in a lot of ways but our engines did not come to us set up for these. So there will be formulas for timing, consumption, etc. that are altered and will have to be corrected. That is basically what we mean by the phrase in English, "dialing it in".

Nice to read that

I was thinking..it needs so big pieces of metal, to put a reed valve? Cannot put only a few little pieces between port and carb?

How big is the reed valve?

Thanks

It is 15mm diameter. It is the black piece in one of the pictures earlier in the thread. This is just an experiment with different variables. I could have used another material, and probably will, but the metal is what I had on hand.

This link is to a brief video. It really does sound like a weed eater

YouTube - motorbike new build reed valve

I loved that bike, sounds really good!

I have my m.bike, that the idle is really unstable. If the motor is cold, i push the cluth, the motor stop, when the motor is hot, rpm just raise too much and i have to press the kill switch because is really noisy.

Sometimes i reajust the idle screw but are these 2 cons. In cold, the motor stops, when it's hot, the rpm raise too much.

From the simple setup you could get parts cut out and sell the custom reed kit for cheap. It all depends on how many you want cut out on the first run. I fyou were to make the cad program youself you can save alot of money that way they just have to input it and cut you can do everything else like applying the rtv to the 1/4" plates and making the little valve.

also have you tried getting a shorter intake because if you were to subtract the amount you put on you would get your performance back.

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I didn't get some of what you said..

I can make a reed valve and sell for cheap? where i can get one? it's a specific valve that only mechanics have? the plates are only to hold the reed, right?

thanks reg



This is the valve, right? you made it?