Do I need to drill the frame?

I saw in passing a mention of how the chain tensioner can come loose and flip into the rear spokes with disasterous effect. I also read on the Spooky Tooth site that they recommend holding the tensioner in place with a set screw. Does that mean I should drill a hole through my frame and run a self threading screw in to hold the tensioner in place? I am definitely into pain avoidance so I am wondering what the proper procedure is for dealing with this issue. Currently I am tightening the bolts every night after I ride but I want to do as much as possible to make my cruiser safe. Thanks for any feedback!

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put a screw thru the frame and the tensioner. or if you know some one with a welder have them put a couple of tac welds to keep it in place.

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The rear stays are not large and drilling would weaken them too much I think. There are two things you can do to make this part grab your bike. You can cut some strips of soda can and wrap your stay until it is large enough so the Idler bracket will grab and hold fast. Or..You can simply flip the half moon bracket around and using longer bolts then clamp it down tight. Both methods have worked very well for me. I have not tried the flipping method on an aluminum rear stay yet. But for steel, both methods are good. Enjoy the ride...

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See below. Steel frame. #8 socket head screw- drilled, tapped, red loctite.

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...or this- Cupped washers for chain tensioner

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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

My 2 cents. Drilling the frame is NOT a good idea. I take some metal and place it on the ground, concrete and an old piece of wood and bend the metal to fit inside the tensioner. I am still with Cruiser on this, If you don't need the thing, don't use it.

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I took two 3/8in x 3in axle keys and welded them to my chain stay it works beautiful and allows you to adjust to the chain stretching.

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Hi Hse, your bike will perform better if you remove some of the links in your engine chain, slide your tensioner forward and then re-adjust.

The ideal situation on a chain sprocket, is 50% of the teeth engaged with chain. When I look at your pic, you only have about 11 teeth not engaged.

Power is lost by all the extra chain contact, and the fact that you are letting the chain "climb" the rear sprocket.

Try it, and see if you can feel the difference?

BTW on frame drilling, I NEVER have drilled ANY bicycle frame, with the exception of drilling thru the crown on very old american bikes, to install front brakes.

Mike

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i have 2 cents as well to add.
i took a flat piece of metal about a foot long and attached it to the chain stay and the frame piece above it, it worked pretty well. but i think taking a small flat piece of metal and replacing the clamping piece that is too rounded would work better.