On the front motor mount I took a hand drill mounted drum sander and enlarged
the mount to a slightly oversize fit to my tube.This went outside the original threaded mounting holes.Used bondo to mold fit to tube.I used packing tape around tube as a mold release.I placed a piece of inner tube material under tape as that is what would eventually be between the two.Made for a good fit.
Then I drilled 1/4" holes on both sides of the mount as far back as possible.
A little less on the left side because the ignition wires get in the way.These holes intersect and go past factory mounting holes at a right angle.Took 2 pieces of 1/4" steel rod and bent a 90*leg on both. With bent rods in place marked where they intersect original holes.Notched them at this point and used set screws through factory holes to lock them in.With JB weld to boot.Threaded ends of rods before installing and made (opposing plate?) out of 1/8"steel bar stock.
I should say this comes dangerously close to "compromising the integrity" of the mount.I like to throw that phrase out now and then as I seem like I know something until I open my mouth again.I have cranked the mounting bolts very tight (while cringing) with no problem.Now I just have to worry about longterm fatigue.
Bottom line: I'm not sure this is any significant improvement but it sure as **** looks a lot better than a flat plate clamped to a round tube.I couldn't hack that. Now all I need is a rear rack heavy duty enough to haul a 30 pack of malt beverage as that is where most of my driving miles come from.Ron