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Originally Posted by 2door First of all I moved your post to the mounting techniques section where it will get more attention.
I've no experience with the Sick Bike Parts front mount but you should have received the right fasteners with it. If you want to switch from studs to bolts that's a good idea in my book but as far as length for the front, I can't help you. The stock mount when used on a standard 'V' frame bike will require 6mm X 20mm. You'll fine it easier to use Allen head capscrews instead of hex head bolts due to the limited space available. As for the rear mount, if installed on a standard diameter seat tube, will be a 6mm X 50 to 55mm. Again, use Allen head capscrews. You'll notice the kit supplied nuts for the engine studs are smaller in outside diameter than a standard metric nut. That is because of the limited space around the mounting areas of the motor mounts, intake and exhaust manifolds. Ace hardware carries all the necessary sizes you'll need and in a grade 8 or the metric equivalent of a grade 8. Some will tell you that a grade 8 fastener is too hard and will break. That just is not true. You can run a grade 5 fastener and be okay but the extra assurnace is worth the few pennies difference in price. Grade 8 fasteners are usually black. Do not use stainless steel fasteners for anything other than decorative work.
Tom |
I would recommend against replacing the mounting studs with bolts. The studs are typically threaded securely into the cast aluminum motor casing. When tightening the mounts, the nut is rotating on the steel stud. If you use bolts, the bolt threads are rotating in the relatively soft aluminum case at fairly high preloads. Doing this repeatedly will cause galling of the aluminum and will eventually destroy the threads. The bolts can work but be aware of the potential problems.